|
Post by jim1973 on May 8, 2018 23:22:15 GMT
Another fine effort paddy649! They look great and the Maltese cross is acceptable dramatic licence. This is not Napoleonics after all. Thankfully, though on the distant horizon, Teutonic order is not in the lead mountain. ("But there are some 1/72 plastics for skirmishing somewhere..." he starts to wonder.)
That was completed on the weekend. Enough Essex minis to build almost all Early Hellenistic armies. But in true form, I started looking at other manufacturers ("OOOH! They're nicer. Shiny, Shiny..." he thinks.) But I dragged myself back and decided to go with the Essex with some variants sprinkled in, particularly in the phalanx. The therapy must be helping. Just have to finish the Anglo-Saxons, Nikephorians, Crusaders and enemies. Of course t he Sumerians will also arrive from Eureka.
First world problems of a tragic wargamer.
Cheers
Jim
|
|
|
Post by jim1973 on May 2, 2018 0:01:41 GMT
Drat you paddy649!
Now I have to spend the afternoon going through my lead mountain, digging out the DBA 1.1 Essex Alexandrian army, finding the unpainted armies, debasing...
My wife was expecting some chores to be done. Silly thought really!
Jim
|
|
|
Post by jim1973 on May 1, 2018 23:52:17 GMT
I'd like to add:
9. Encourages historical study - Building matched pairs is affordable, encouraging historical battles and scenarios 10. Time efficient - Small armies allow for that extra time to add a little bit to the painting, bases and terrain building 11. Campaign friendly - Campaigns done and dusted in a weekend 12. Allows for breadth of interests - "Butterflies" like me can skip around the historical timelines with ease, particularly with the later adaptations. 13. Teachable - Basic competence with the rules can be taught in an afternoon (my six year old beat me in his second game...)
and last but not least...
14. Fanaticus - this is a fun forum!
Jim
|
|
|
Post by jim1973 on May 1, 2018 23:36:48 GMT
Great look! What is the playing surface? Certainly looks like grass!
Jim
|
|
|
Post by jim1973 on Apr 28, 2018 14:45:17 GMT
Re: 8Bw in EAP army list
Historically it seems that Sparabara struggled against the Phalanx. Ray's Land Battles in 5th Centuary BC Greece has 5 persian victories with only one where the Persian sparabara infantry played a decisive role (Marsyas 497BC against Carians and Milesians) with the other victories attributed to cavalry and light troop superiority. The 10 Persian losses almost universally list Heavy Infantry superiority of the hoplites as the decisive factor. It also seems that during Xerxes invasion, Greek strategy was mostly concerned with negating the cavalry superiority with terrain rather than concern about the infantry (apart from the numbers).
However, it should probably have more staying power than currently, as described by Herodotus at Mycale and during the Ionian revolt. Also, Persian organisation was based on a 10 rank unit, not much different to an 8 rank phalanx. Apart from the Immortals, Sparabara were important but relatively common units in the army. They certainly don't resemble the deep Theban phalanx!
In DBA terms it would seem fair to me to make them +3 in close combat and abandon the 2 element cost of the first unit lost, unless the element is specifically representing the Immortals and you're using some sort of elite unit house rule.
Cheers
Jim
|
|
|
Post by jim1973 on Apr 28, 2018 14:19:31 GMT
Thanks Stevie.
The original DBM rules have direction rules. There are risks of dazzle if facing due east near dawn or due west at dusk. You can also change the wind direction and shooting is penalised in strong winds unless within 45 degrees of the wind direction. Then there are also night fighting rules...
I chose to leave them out. Mainly because I think DBA players are looking for a 1 hour game and probably don't want to spend 30 minutes figuring out which way the wind is blowing. I tried to keep the rules that could add a few more tactical problems for the players to deal with but could be determined within 5-10 minutes of set up.
I've always felt DBA would be enhanced with some sort of strategic back story for the pick up games. That way "weaker" defending armies may have a legitimate, historical reason to sit in bad going and wait for the invader to come on.
Interestingly, DBMM has and extra climactic region (Cold,Cool, Warm, Dry, Tropical), which I picked up looking at the DBMM army lists (fantastic resource even if I never play the game) to get the regions for the DBA lists. I'd be interested in the time/weather rules Phil developed for DBMM as I think he had a clean canvas to work. I may have to get them just to read Phil's ideas.
Playtesting so far has almost always lead to mid-to-late morning battles in good weather. Go figure! Just need to keep playing games. Early Carthiginians and Gauls set up at the moment.
Cheers
Jim
|
|
|
Post by jim1973 on Apr 28, 2018 10:02:28 GMT
Well that settles it! I'm certainly not going to question the Barkers about what a rider can or cannot manage over a 20m distance. Now to the board for a playtest!
Jim
|
|
|
Post by jim1973 on Apr 27, 2018 9:13:09 GMT
I agree with Bob. Beautiful model. I've only recently picked up a selection of Greeks from Victrix for skirmish gaming. Very happy so far. I've made some balsa wood trireme decks to play some boarding actions. They recently released Greek Light Cavalry which also look good. Hoping to see some Thracians and Persians in the not too decent future.
Jim
|
|
|
Post by jim1973 on Apr 27, 2018 9:09:45 GMT
Thank you for your insight. I think it highlights Phil's intention with his rule. Namely, that passing too close to the front of an enemy horsemen puts you at risk of sudden attack. This may very well have been common knowledge to our historical predecessors. From what I've read online, it seems as though Phil was no slouch on a horse and no doubt he used this experience in developing his rules.
Jim
|
|
|
Post by jim1973 on Apr 26, 2018 23:11:43 GMT
You are correct Bob. LH has a move of 20p (20cm). Troops cannot cross the front of enemy unless moving into contact within the enemy's move distance. This is on a recommended board size of 120cm. Is that so unreasonable given it is modelling a 1:1 situation (1 pace = 1cm)? I am no horseman but they seem to cover ground quite quickly when on the move! I don't think they'd be static that close to the enemy. Just trying to imagine the scenario in my mind's eye. Anyway, I made some top down markers from the Junior General webpage to try it out over the weekend.
Jim
|
|
|
Post by jim1973 on Apr 26, 2018 8:29:07 GMT
Has anybody tried out these skirmish rules from Phil? I was initially luke warm but now with DBA 3 I've re-read them and appreciate the subtleties intended. (My "Barkerese" has obviously improved). Planning on giving them a try and thinking about adapting the distances to allow for 15mm figures on my DBA boards using the same terrain. Could be a good way to use the extra figures in the lead pile. They are still available free from Phil's website (http://www.wrg.me.uk/PHIL/DBV%202003.htm) but you can get a bound copy from Lulu. I'm not sure of any differences and I don't think they are a finished product but like HFG, put out there for the community. I just cut and pasted the website rules onto Word and formatted the document, whilst I wait for Lulu. There is one glaring error under demoralisation, where the trigger point in terms of soldiers lost is omitted. Maybe that is corrected o the printed copy?
Cheers
Jim
|
|
|
Post by jim1973 on Apr 26, 2018 8:13:28 GMT
It was made form cork tiles. Two pieces to make the base. Strips glued to the back to make the rock wall. Then hack at the edges with a craft knife to give the angular appearance, keeping the bits to make the loose rocks and rock piles. A dark brown paint and a drybrush followed by flock and lichen. Initially, the walls were made from balsa wood but I wasn't happy with it so I substituted some pieces from Baueda.
Jim
|
|
|
Post by jim1973 on Apr 20, 2018 9:23:33 GMT
There are a number of house rule mechanisms you could use that have been tried by other rules:
1) Identify the "Core" units of an army (e.g. Greek Hoplites) and end the game when a third/half of them are lost 2) After losing four element equivalents you roll a dice. Keep fighting if you roll higher than your losses. Repeat each turn or each further loss 3) Roll for each element against their combat factor versus the closest enemy. Roll higher to stay in the fight.
If you try any please let us know the outcome.
Cheers
Jim
|
|
|
Post by jim1973 on Apr 20, 2018 9:12:27 GMT
The Celts and Romans have been re-released by Totentanz Miniatures. I think they have plans for more releases.
Jim
|
|
|
Post by jim1973 on Apr 20, 2018 6:47:05 GMT
Hi all. I'm thinking about Libyan army using Chariot miniatures as they are enemies for both New Kingdom Egyptian and Kyrenean Greek. But one is bronze age and one iron age! What are people's thoughts about Libyan armies having transferred to iron weapons by the 5th centuary BC?
Cheers
Jim
|
|