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Post by jim1973 on Jan 9, 2019 21:35:02 GMT
Junior General is a great resource. I've cut and pasted various armies to being them up to DBA 3. I may still have the Word files if you'd like thsm.
Cheers
Jim
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Post by jim1973 on Jan 9, 2019 12:40:31 GMT
Welcome back Derek! I have no experience with setting up a DBA club with kids but I am in the middle of a terrain creation period. I would imagine that the visual experience is what kids will gravitate to but you have the best resource available, your son, to find out what clicks. I think felt is excellent to get things started as it's not fiddly, lies flat, doesn't slide and can clearly differentiate different terrains for rules purposes, particularly if it's colour coded. I still use a corduroy brown felt for plough! Once you get some interest you can have some fun with terrain days. If each member creates one piece then your club terrain box will fill up in no time. I use cork tiles from our large hardware chain, together with their cheap acrylic paints as the basis for each piece. Easy to cut and even carve, quick coat of earthy paint, then PVA glue and flock. Add some sticks and stones from mother nature then spray watered-down PVA to harden and protect. If you drop the school line you may get some donations of textured paint, etc to help. Also, eBay search model trees from China can get large numbers dirt cheap. As for the rules, you can try these hint cards to see if they help. Hint cards linkGood luck! Jim |
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Post by jim1973 on Jan 5, 2019 22:33:31 GMT
Thanks stevie. I got your point but during my game I realised that even if 7Hd are completely surrounded but not doubled (admittedly a rare but not impossible die roll) then they survive! Perhaps there are just too many to butcher quickly?
Jim
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Post by jim1973 on Jan 5, 2019 1:23:13 GMT
Ok. It's a little late and not quite all "pledged" armies done but I've completed the following: - New Kingdom Egyptian (Museum Miniatures) - Gallic (Old Glory 15s) - Ancient British (Old Glory 15s) - Viking (Splintered Light) - Middle Anglo-Saxon (Splintered Light) - Anglo-Danish (Splintered Light) Unfortunately, this forum has reached its file limit so I cannot upload the photos. Cheers Jim Jim, Have you thought about using the Fanaticus DBA Wiki? fanaticus-dba.wikia.com/wiki/Fanaticus_DBA_Wikia
I'd be happy to do that. I miss the Eye Candy section of the previous site. Jim |
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Post by jim1973 on Jan 5, 2019 1:21:24 GMT
Hi Paddy.
I'm not sure I'll get 10 out this year...BUT...
- Legio Heroica Crusaders and enemies
- Khurasan Nikephorians
- Eureka Sumerians
- A whole batch of Essex Hellenistics
are on the mountain and waiting, together with the Greek Myth HOTT army. Not to mention that I'm eyeing off Essex Welsh and Xyston EAP.
Ok, I'll need to do a stocktake and write up a schedule.
Cheers
Jim
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Post by jim1973 on Jan 5, 2019 1:11:21 GMT
I'm a big fan of the Games Workshop washes. They work well and add depth to colours (think dark green in the folds of a green cloak). The sepia wash works well for blonde hair. Nuln Oil takes the shine off metal to gives them that real world look. Fleshshade brings out the facial detail and can be alternated with the dark brown Earthshade for darker skin tones. Actually, I use buckets of the Earthshade on most wood, leather, stone, etc details for effect. But I think some restraint is also necessary, particularly on flat surfaces, as well as using some drybrush/touch up for lighter colours that lose their lustre. Finally, a little patience to let the paint fully dry seems to decrease absorption of the shade on the higher points, helping to create a highlight.
Having said all that, at gaming distance, it's still the mass effect and the basing detail that seems to catch my eye!
Cheers
Jim
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Post by jim1973 on Jan 5, 2019 0:58:38 GMT
Yes Jim, there is a difference. Troops with a depth of 1 base width often have no room to recoil when making flank attacks (called ‘shutting-the-door’). And if they have no room to recoil, they will be destroyed. Now it is true that ‘solid’ Hordes are hard to recoil...but they will recoil when attacking a flank and their friends actually doing the dicing and fighting the enemy front are defeated (see page 11, paragraph 4, last sentence).  Some potentially useful player aids can be found here, such as the “Quick Reference Sheets” from the Society of Ancients,
and the new “Army List Corrections” file: fanaticus-dba.wikia.com/wiki/Category:Reference_sheets_and_epitomes
And this is the latest January 2018 FAQ: fanaticus-dba.wikia.com/wiki/FAQ_2018
Hordes are certainly interesting. "Shutting-the-door" against 7Hd doesn't seem to be worth the PIP in close combat. The equal result makes it a bit more useful against 5Hd. My new Vikings found that out the hard way on their first raid into Mercia. Cheers Jim |
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Post by jim1973 on Jan 4, 2019 10:07:30 GMT
Ok. It's a little late and not quite all "pledged" armies done but I've completed the following:
- New Kingdom Egyptian (Museum Miniatures)
- Gallic (Old Glory 15s)
- Ancient British (Old Glory 15s)
- Viking (Splintered Light)
- Middle Anglo-Saxon (Splintered Light)
- Anglo-Danish (Splintered Light)
Unfortunately, this forum has reached its file limit so I cannot upload the photos.
Cheers
Jim
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Post by jim1973 on Dec 30, 2018 12:50:18 GMT
Fabulous work! Now I've got to get back to flocking the bases of my armies. 24 hours left!
Cheers
Jim
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Post by jim1973 on Dec 19, 2018 4:16:17 GMT
Hi Paul.
I think you've hit another area between what we know and what we "know". From my reading there would be linen cuirasses present during the Persian Wars. At Platea, there would almost certainly be unarmoured hoplites. But you will find debate on all the details because of the scant actual archaeological remains. Too much of the detail was perishible. Did everybody have crests? Were all shields covered in bronze? Who painted what and when? etc etc.
My view of Early v Late Hoplite Greek is more about evolution of secondary troops rather than armour. For representation on the gaming table, I use the theory that Greeks were relatively poor before the Persian Wars, relatively wealthy after the Persian Wars and then relatively poor during the Peloponnesian War with some recovery after. So I decorate according to that. At least I would, but most of my hoplites are well over 15 years old!
Cheers
Jim
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Post by jim1973 on Dec 16, 2018 8:11:38 GMT
Great job! Looks the part. I'm waiting for Baueda to do a 15mm Late Roman/Dark Age fortification to do a Saxon Burgh. May need to bite the bullet and take inspiration from you!
Cheers
Jim
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Post by jim1973 on Dec 12, 2018 8:17:25 GMT
Paul - I also like your basing style for the elements pictured. Any tips on getting that sort of texturing and effect?
Jim
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Post by jim1973 on Dec 5, 2018 22:17:36 GMT
I was meaning to write recoil. I've been up all night marking papers. Point is they don't get to ignore recoils if shot at and so the base size could be relevant in other situations. That means picking every second Hd in a line of Hd for shooting at creates an epic PIP drain for your opponent to have to fix. Hmmm...sounds like Hastings. Jim |
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Post by jim1973 on Dec 5, 2018 10:33:44 GMT
I'm getting to the basing stage for my Great Fyrd. I'm allowed to base 40x40mm or 30x40mm.
So simple question. Is the basing choice purely aesthetic or is there some tactical nuance that I'm missing? (Ahhh for the simplicity of Spartans)
Cheers
Jim
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Post by jim1973 on Dec 2, 2018 4:17:22 GMT
I've been resisting but alas no more! Message sent
Jim
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