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Post by weddier on Feb 24, 2024 19:07:17 GMT
This is really nifty, Stevie. It has similarities but covers more time than the old WRG game "Decline and Fall", now long out of print. Thanks for making it available. Also, that is a really cool map.
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Post by weddier on Feb 24, 2024 17:48:21 GMT
In previous editions of the wargames rules PB defined a pace as 2 1/2 feet or 0.75 meters. I expect that has not changed for playing purposes, although figure scale has varied considerably in DBA.
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Post by weddier on May 19, 2020 17:01:23 GMT
Thanks, this was a really entertaining battle report. Having your power run out as a good substitute for nightfall is a pretty entertaining idea also!
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Post by weddier on May 9, 2020 19:29:15 GMT
I'm afraid I'm with Cromwell, I have primed half a dozen leader figures and horses. The rest of my paint has gone on (so far) two exterior sides of my house. Scraping and caulking is very time consuming. It's sort of like removing flash, but not as interesting.
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Post by weddier on May 2, 2020 16:17:12 GMT
Somewhere along the line I missed that you had made an index, Stevie. Thanks loads, it's a great help!
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Post by weddier on Mar 11, 2020 2:51:31 GMT
A drop of detergent in a cereal bowl full of cool water will do for scrubbing with a soft toothbrush. I've never used vinegar as a stripper, but it's worth a try. I usually clear the flash with a sharp pointed craft knife, but you have to have a very sharp edge to avoid the fuzziness. I have used a hot needle instead. If you don't have a soldering tool for that, a candle flame works. Put the needle in a piece of cork, and shield the flame so you don't go blind temporarily. The others are quite right, heat can go badly fast. Be very careful. Emery boards are useful for fine sanding on resin. Needle files as well.
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Post by weddier on Aug 29, 2019 3:01:17 GMT
I start out batch painting, but by the time I am approaching finishing the figures, I have done so much differential work on each that they become individual projects. I mostly do unarmored armies, so better than half the figures are skin and plain wool or linen color. That goes pretty fast. Then you know the advice, "Paint one with a green shirt, another with green pants, a third with green stripes, the next with green fringe..." Yada, Yada. By the time I run through the color palette, stripes, solids, fringes, plaids if needed, different hair colors, individual shield patterns, shading, different weapons, backing up to correct the mistakes (yes, I confess) and so on, I'm not sure that I am actually saving any time.
And yes, acrylics - excelsior!
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Post by weddier on Jul 5, 2019 22:51:25 GMT
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Post by weddier on Sept 24, 2018 23:44:37 GMT
Marx noble nights on ceiling tile, then. I think I still have a couple somewhere...
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Post by weddier on Jun 16, 2018 3:12:23 GMT
I use thin craft foam pieces. Thin magnetic sheet seems to work fairly well also.
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Post by weddier on May 11, 2018 4:03:52 GMT
My sense of this is that the double based elements were included largely because they are used in DBM and DBMM and the author wanted those who played with such elements to be able to play DBA without the need to acquire more figures. In DBM and DBMM these mostly represent specialized formations of mixed arms troops, but the scale of DBA compared to the other rules means that the usual elements can't show this. Essentially, all DBA elements represent a double based element in DBM or DBMM. One of the complaints about v2 of DBA was that people using the double based elements suffered penalties in recoil and manoeuver but had no bonus that offset this to make using the specialized elements worthwhile. The v3 rules allow for some offsetting bonus.
Once this was allowed an 8Sp element made some sense in DBA (as extra deep Theban hoplite formations) and so was included, though it doesn't officially exist in DBMM. But basically, the rules for them exist to enable a smoother transition between DBA and DBMM, one of Mr. Barker's goals in developing v3.
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Post by weddier on May 4, 2018 1:54:11 GMT
Curiously, one of the carved panels from Trajan's trophy mound in Romania has one of the mailed legionaries chasing down an archer seeming sniping from a tree. I wouldn't think that squared with the behavior of a steppe horse archer, and if the legionary stone carvers who seem to have made the trophy thought archers were important enough to add to the pictures, psiloi ought to be a possibility at least. The metopes can be seen in the Wikipedia entry en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tropaeum_Traiani .
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Post by weddier on Apr 19, 2018 1:14:20 GMT
Why not just tell your opponent that the stand with the fancy building is just a camp for game purposes and treat it as such during the game? A Built Up Area that is too big to fit in the four base width perimeter of a Camp and gives a +4 bonus to its garrison is by definition a City, whatever it looks like. A Fort is a defended BUA not having any lost element value itself if captured and so can't be a Camp. You could make it an Edifice Camp, but it only gives the regular +2 Camp bonus for the defenders in that case. I think that covers all the possibilities. Someone check, I have been wrong before.
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Post by weddier on Apr 15, 2018 22:49:23 GMT
Tom, possibly those of us who appreciated all the hard work the testing group put in have not thanked all of you enough. I have been playing with WRG products since 1973 and DBA 3.0 is great. Really, a first rate product compared to any game publisher of similar stuff. Thanks again, all of you.
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Post by weddier on Apr 15, 2018 22:39:00 GMT
A camp is defended if it has figures in it, either elements or decorative fixed figures. It is undefended if it has no figures in it. Undefended camps can be entered freely. Other camps must be assaulted. See the rules section on "Camps".
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