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Post by jim1973 on Dec 31, 2022 3:48:36 GMT
Going back to my 20mm WW2 skirmish rules for 2023. I haven't done this in about 20 years and the rules I used to use are now OOP - The Face of Battle. TBH more interested in painting/building than playing, however. Your tanks look great! Have you considered What a Tanker! from Too Fat Lardies to take them for a spin? Jim |
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Post by jim1973 on Dec 31, 2022 3:45:28 GMT
You can take this to the extreme and try the 3x3 portable wargame rules. They are in the Portable Wargame Compendium: Wargame VaultHere are some reviews and descriptions: Bob CorderyThe StrongholdThere is something interesting about something so simple. Jim |
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Post by jim1973 on Dec 30, 2022 1:47:03 GMT
How does one download the file? Just goes around and around in a link loop. I initially had some problems from my phone but not from my PC, if that helps. Jim |
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Post by jim1973 on Dec 29, 2022 7:05:50 GMT
Hello Fanatici! I hope you all had a safe and happy Xmas and are looking forward to the New Year. Thanks to stevie and ratsmitglied , I have a small offering for you to pass away the holidays, particularly if you have an interest in Dark Age England. The following link is to a set of campaign rules that I concocted : The Birth of EnglandThese are mapless rules to cover the period from the initial Viking raids up until the events of 1066. They are designed to take advantage of the strengths of DBA3 and require no special rules but you could certainly add whatever House rules you like (e.g. time and weather, random terrain, etc). Though centred on the Anglo-Saxons and the Vikings, they allow for their neighbours to get involved without the need for extra players (though you are free to get as many people involved as you like). Design notes are included. I've deliberately designed them to play like a military history, concentrating on the significant battles of each period, rather than worry about resource management etc. There are obstacles for the leading player to keep things interesting and a mechanism for the trailing player to close the gap by killing the leading warlord of the period! I hope you enjoy them and please feel free to provide feedback on this thread. Cheers Jim |
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Post by jim1973 on Dec 23, 2022 22:16:05 GMT
I always thought French was a beautiful language!
Jim
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Post by jim1973 on Dec 23, 2022 4:14:38 GMT
Ahh, the sticky front edge again. I think I mentioned on a another thread that it would be great if it was magnetic rather than sticky so that you need (at least part of) two front edges at exactly one TZ away to be threatened. Everything else would have to be "within TZ" which is a lot easier to adjudicate. The clauses Ronisan quoted could then read:
"An element or group which is (1) at least partly within or (2) whose front edge enters an enemy TZ or (3) (whose front edge) touches its far edge can move only: ..."
Would make things a lot simpler.
Jim
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Post by jim1973 on Dec 21, 2022 10:18:57 GMT
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Post by jim1973 on Dec 21, 2022 6:10:22 GMT
Good tips from both of you! I use a sort of reverse zenithal (nadir?) approach to airbrush priming my 28mm with a solid white prime followed by dark grey shot from below to increase the depth of the shadowing but giving the Speed paint more white to work with on the model. Haven't started that for 15mm multi-figure bases. Not sure my painting skills will make it worthwhile. What spray on varnish do you use?
Jim
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Post by jim1973 on Dec 21, 2022 4:57:32 GMT
Lovely! Better than my results with speed paints please let us know how you did it. I’m assuming a white undercoat? Hi Ken, I go through my approach with Speedpaints on this link linkWhite Vallejo airbrush primer, acrylic skin, metallics and white, Speed paint the rest. LBMS decals wherever possible. Cheers Jim |
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Post by jim1973 on Dec 21, 2022 4:54:42 GMT
A very nice AAR Jim. The top-down look is very effective. Cheers, I've always wanted someone to come out quality top-down cardboard elements similar to the quality you get in boardgame companies like FFG. A bit of felt terrain and you have portable DBA! Jim |
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Post by jim1973 on Dec 20, 2022 11:35:19 GMT
Just put up my Illyrians, which were the first 15mm historicals after getting hooked on them with 28mm. I've used them since on a few other armies and have developed my early thoughts: 1. They're good. They're very good. But they are not perfect. There are some issues that you need to keep in mind to avoid disappointment. But I think with a few considerations you can get a lot out of them and get lots on minis painted fast! They do contrast the recesses as advertised. They apply so easily and spread effortlessly. But you need to get used to that flow. Good white or cream undercoat is important. I've used the Citadel bone undercoat as well as Vallejo airbrush primer. 2. Skin - I still use acrylics with washes for skin. The Speedpaint skin is quite good but if you get splashes from other paints it can cause problems, which are hard to hide on skin. Also, ranges for historical skin tones are better with acrylics. I've tried Citadel contrast skin tones but they were more blotchy than Speedpaint. 3. Some are better than others. The browns, reds, oranges and yellows are brilliant. The browns make painting cavalry almost bearable. The blues, greens, purples are a little hit and miss. The white is actually light grey. Better to wash undercoat with Nuln oil then paint between the lines with acrylic white. The black needs two coats to look black. One coat is more dark grey. the mid grey is a good paint. 4. Reactivation is a pain. This is specific for Speedpaint. Wet it, even with another paint, and it will reactivate and mix with your current paint. A few white lines on red Speedpaint will show you the true nature of pink! This does not seem to be a problem with Citadel contrast. It is sometimes good, in that a clean wet brush can erase a small amount of paint. But mostly bad, if you want patterns on the clothes. Tips to deal with reactivation are to plan your painting, starting with the lightest colours as you can overpaint with the darker colour more easily and any slight mixing near the edge ends up as a contrast edge. Also, if planning patterns, you'll need to varnish after the base coat to seal the paint then paint on the patterns. 5. They are fragile early. Once you apply the coat you must let it dry completely or it will tear the paint film. This is worse on flat surfaces (shields, horses rumps, etc). In fact, if you use paint on varnish (as I do) you can wipe some off, particularly the black. This is annoying unless you want grey-haired veterans in your army. I will be trying to use my airbrush to varnish, or possibly try a rattle can. 6. The future is bright. Army painter is working hard on more colours and better formulation. They are even working on Speedpaint metallics ( Sppedpaint metallics). Citadel has also released a whole batch of new contrast paints. I'm particularly interested in what are being called "Contrast flats". These paints flow really well and fast, they don't contrast but give an even flat coat. These will be great for things like cloaks etc. Also thinking of them for later armies (e.g. Napoleonics). Also other companies are getting into the market (e.g. Green Stuff World). So this is great for painters wanting to get armies on the table quickly. So if you are in a painting rut then think of giving them ago. Start with Hardened Leather brown and some horses and see how you go. I'd love to hear how others have used them so far. Cheers Jim |
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Post by jim1973 on Dec 20, 2022 11:00:13 GMT
Maybe a Hott Jason and the argonauts army as well thanks to jim1973 . All the best for 2023 everyone KG I'll be watching this project very closely and will shamelessly steal your ideas!  Cheers Jim |
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Post by jim1973 on Dec 20, 2022 10:53:47 GMT
So my new Illyrian army needed to be blooded so they took there heavy option of 4Aux to raid the Gauls to the north using the Fast 3Wb option with chariots. The Gauls were defending their village with a small wood nearby:  The armies advanced with Gauls thinking of flanking around the woods. The Illyrians learn that command control beyond a wood can be troublesome. The armies close in...  The Gauls have the positional advantage but the Illyrians fight desperately around the woods and survive overwhelming odds. Then a column of Gauls pursue into double overlap and are destroyed followed by the death of the Gallic chieftain. The Illyrians were left masters of the field!   So all in all, the Illyrians did what was written on the pack. They dealt with Warband reasonably comfortably. But knights and heavy infantry are waiting in the wings... Hope you enjoy! Jim PS Two more battle planned to showcase some new armies then a break for a while. |
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Post by jim1973 on Dec 20, 2022 10:38:14 GMT
This project must've sat on my workbench for months, less than half finished. I couldn't bring myself to painting all the Aux! In the meantime I received Army Painter Speedpaints and tried them on 80+ Zombicide: Black Plague miniatures and it was a revelation! I finished those miiatures inside 2 weeks. My drive to batch paint was reborn. But would they work on 15mm historicals? I decided to have a go on the Illyrians because they were going nowhere fast. Here is the end result direct from the foothills of Illyria:   The minis are mostly Forged in Battle with some Xyston slingers. The skin and metals are standard acrylics with Speedpaints for the colours. Shield decals from LBMS (Forged in Battle Macedonian). I'll write something more about Speedpaints shortly but first, a battle report... Cheers Jim PS Having been locked in with COVID recently, I've got two more armies and one new morphed army to show soon. |
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Post by jim1973 on Dec 18, 2022 14:58:17 GMT
One Skythian LH went down to a Roman LH He'll never hear the end of it from his mates! Jim |
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