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Post by Cromwell on Oct 21, 2020 6:04:55 GMT
Hi Cromwell; I went to your site to check out the 2mm figures you are doing, but I am not the sharpest tool in the shed, and could not find the pics. Can you point me to the right spot? Thanks! The only one I found: www.spanglefish.com/solitarywargamer/index.asp?pageid=463234I note that all the units are marked but I guess for the period it is not necessary to know much more than foot, horse or gun. Still, perhaps there is a need to know if troops are anything between OLD GUARD and MILITIA. I find 6mm a challenge to paint and can only imagine what 2mm or 3mm is like. Evidently a question of painting a unit rather than individuals. When it comes down to it the only way to be sure is to try it. Sorry about that. The pics seem to have deserted! I will upload them to the site this evening. I label mine LINE INFANTRY, LIGHT INFANTRY, OLD GUARD, GRENADIERS, HEAVY CAVALRY, LIGHT CAVALRY, LANCERS HORSE AND FOOT ARTILLERY, JAGERS/SKIRMISHERS, MILITIA etc. Painting is quite quick. Grey undercoat paint hats, thin line of flesh to give impression of faces, jacket colour, trousers, blod of white for cross belts brown or black blob on back for packs etc. Looks okay on mass.
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Post by Cromwell on Oct 19, 2020 20:31:07 GMT
Excellent service from Irregular Miniatures. As I mentioned before they even made up a Spanish army for me as their range lacked one. I found the process very easy. I purchased my forces using the Irregular 2mm Battle Packs. You get two armies of your choice and a simple set of rules. There is a balanced force the size of the battalions is historically reflected. Contains Infantry, Cavalry, Artillery and Commanders. At this scale painting is relatively easy. I primed with Grey, then paint the hats/helmets, then the tunics, then trousers. Hint of white on the tunics to suggest belts etc, blob of brown/black on the back to show a pack. Cavalry I paint the horses first. Although only 2mm tall you can tell lancers from other cavalry. Paint Infantry according to the type and nationality. The battalion blocks have colours and I was able to get the French flag on there! I based mine two infantry battalions to a base side by side base being 40mm x 20mm and then placed a small label behind stating type. On mass they look very effective. I would suggest obtaining the scenery pack that Irregular do.All my Battlepacks actually came with two scenery pieces. Their are some pictures on my web page gallery. www.spanglefish.com/solitarywargamer
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Post by Cromwell on Oct 19, 2020 14:22:42 GMT
Thanks! I will check it out.
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Post by Cromwell on Oct 19, 2020 6:56:49 GMT
Over the weekend I managed to win an auction on ebay at a very reasonable cost and now find myself the proud owner of 150+ World War two 15mm Infantry figures (German and British) with a variety of weapons.
I do wargame WW2 but only air wargames "Blood Red Skies" and "Wild Blue Yonder".
I have some notion floating about in my fevered brain to use them for company level actions and skirmishes.
Does anyone have any suggestions as to a good set of rules to use with them?
Any help gratefully received!
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Post by Cromwell on Oct 19, 2020 6:49:21 GMT
All okay here.
I share your frustration at the world of technology!
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Post by Cromwell on Oct 15, 2020 6:54:44 GMT
I have a 20mm Parthian army in plastic. The entire DBA army with options by HaT. Two boxes of figures. Parthian Heavy Cavalry (cataphracts) and Parthian Light Cavalry (Horse Archers) the light cavalry box also contained the foot units option. They go well with my 20mm Early Imperial Roman army from Irregular Miniatures.
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Post by Cromwell on Oct 14, 2020 7:44:53 GMT
I have looked at Tabletop Simulator and I have been very tempted to get it.
But being a bit of a technophobe I probably would not get the best from it.
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Post by Cromwell on Oct 14, 2020 7:40:54 GMT
Here in Norfolk England during the 13th Century Kings Lynn was the third largest port in England and was part of the Hanseatic League. Still standing are the last Hanseatic warehouses in England along with merchant houses from the time. Well worth a visit.
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Post by Cromwell on Oct 10, 2020 8:30:20 GMT
My apologies to aelbert. Once again my entry into a thread has reduced a sensible, useful and meaningful discussion to a level of silliness that Monty Python would have shied away from! But it was funny
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Post by Cromwell on Oct 9, 2020 7:11:31 GMT
And then there is the line of thought that the rhomphaia was but a farming tool, and not a battlefield weapon... Hmmm...it might be a bit odd to have a brave fallen warrior buried in his tomb with his favourite agricultural instrument...it would be like a modern paratrooper’s tombstone depicting him in full battle gear but carrying a garden rake... Perhaps your paratroop fell during operation "Market Garden" !
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Post by Cromwell on Oct 9, 2020 7:09:27 GMT
Yes, that’s my recollection too. Google images for English Civil War scythe men shows plenty of examples. I have used a scythe in my youth and it would certainly be an impractical weapon “as is”. Removing the blade and remounting onto a decent shaft would make a much more sensible and practical weapon. Geoff Now you have said that it has awakened memories of a book I read many moons ago on the Monmouth Rebellion and it did indeed state that the agricultural implements were adapted.
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Post by Cromwell on Oct 8, 2020 7:06:27 GMT
Snowcat makes an interesting point. The use of farming implements in combat such as pitch forks and scythes etc.
Peasants and the like make up hordes or during the English Civil War "Clubmen" and they would invariably be armed with such items including billhooks, sickles and priests (club used to despatch game or smaller domestic animals).
I wonder if we sometimes underestimate the effectiveness of such people. They were not drilled, trained in military formations or instilled with much discipline. But they were experts with their chosen tool or weapon. Knew how to use it and had the strength to wield it for long hours. I for one would not want to be on the wrong end of a pitch Fork!
However I do ponder how effective a weapon the scythe would be. The blade tends to face inward and you cut with a sweeping stroke across your body the blade about ankle height. Great for taking out the legs of your opponent, but leaving you very exposed above the waist and the weapon would become cumbersome and unbalanced if raised high where the swing would tend to pull your opponent towards you.
Be interesting to hear what others think on this subject.
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Post by Cromwell on Oct 7, 2020 7:36:20 GMT
I say go for it. It's your army. You recruited the soldiers. It's now up to you how you train them and then give them their marching orders to where you see fit!
I have used a light wheeled gun form The War of The Roses as a substitute galloper gun during an English Civil War engagement. As long as I kept them screened by cavalry or tucked behind a hedge the fact their clothes were somewhat out of date and they being 20mm as posed to the 28mm ECW guys making them look like bombastic Hobbits, you really couldn't notice.
Nobody complained!
The advantages of solo play!
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Post by Cromwell on Oct 4, 2020 9:01:14 GMT
That is an interesting thought! But I always succumb to playing with toy soldiers!
I had and in fact still have a 20mm British and 20mm French army based for DBN. Problem was I was really limited to the Peninsular campaigns and I wanted to explore the Napoleonic wars further.
So I purchased from Irregular Miniatures 3 of their 2mm Battlepacks. These come with two armies of your choice and a simple set of rules. They sell for £9.99 per battlepack. Only snag I had was there was no option to select a Spanish army so I emailed Ian Kaye at Irregular and he kindly made one up for me.
In little over a week I had painted up and based for DBN British, French, Austria, Prussian, Russian and Spanish 2mm armies.
That includes me painting up the 2mm scenery pack I also purchased.
I based them 2 x Blocks of figures on a 40mm x 20mm base this gave room behind the units to place a small label giving the units type etc.
I realise 2mm scale is not to everyones taste but it has go me easily and quickly into Napoleonics.
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Post by Cromwell on Oct 3, 2020 8:27:01 GMT
I like that idea Stevie.
I had already put in the following as an option because France is up against it a bit and this would give them more clout and there is the risk of a subjugated nation throwing off the shackles. But that is dependant upon France forcing an annexed nation into being allies so your idea would give more scope for Nations to rise up again.
1) If France decisively defeats a European Power (except Britain and Russia) they can annex the defeated country and claim them as allies. The next European battle France fights can have these allies arrive as reinforcements as described before. However, if France suffers a marginal defeat the alliance is broken, and the country allied is restored to Sovereignty and will need to be defeated again. So, annexing and creating allies can be a two-edged sword. 2) If France is decisively defeated and have no victorious Peninsular army, they can still have another attempt. Their Political points are set to zero. Pick either Prussia or Austria and that nation invades France! If France wins a decisive or marginal victory they can start again. If the invaders win a Decisive or marginal victory they occupy France and the war is over and Napoleon exiled.
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