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Post by felixs on Jan 12, 2018 12:21:03 GMT
I use various acrylic fibre brushes of the "da Vinci" brand. Reliable, relatively inexpensive, huge variety to choose from. And readily available from artist supply stores. As far as I see, they should be available in the UK too.
They also make good hair brushes, but I prefer acrylic brushes for ethical reasons.
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Post by felixs on Dec 27, 2017 21:19:28 GMT
We have tried that years ago with DBA 2. It seriously disrupted how the combat results work in DBA. And it depends on the troop types involved.
If you have mostly or exclusively light troops, it seemed to work. But otherwise you need the more extreme swings of the dice or not much happens. With average dice, you really need to get into the enemy flanks.
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Post by felixs on Dec 5, 2017 19:17:08 GMT
Basing my Celts is nearly finished.
That was a lot of 15mm stuff.
Already begun to work on the overhaul of my Later Carthaginian, but that is going to be a slow project.
For a change of pace, I have re-started working on my Dwarven force for the Kings of War game. They could, of course, also be used for 28mm HotT, if the need arises.
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Post by felixs on Nov 23, 2017 14:36:47 GMT
Those Normans look great. Unusual choice of colours, but works very well.
I have just finished painting all the Celts for my Celt morph set. Now I just need to coat and base them...
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Post by felixs on Nov 21, 2017 13:59:43 GMT
I like them. The colours work very well on them and the bases are beautiful as well.
Should also be very fun to use in battle. I have a soft spot for armies that lack "punch".
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Post by felixs on Nov 20, 2017 16:07:00 GMT
You are allowed to move as a group, provided that the element(s) that are in a TZ move "into or towards contact" (as the rules say). I understand "into or twoards contact" to mean a movement at an angle that would end in contact if far enough. Or, phrased a bit easier: You are not allowed to just cross the fron of an enemy element whose TZ you are in.
Since the rules treat this as a different case from lining up, I would say that both is possible: You can either line up, or you can move into or towards contact.
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Post by felixs on Nov 20, 2017 14:35:37 GMT
a) I do not think that you are required to do that. Only on contact you must line up. (NB, in many cases moving towards the unit whose TZ you are in will require you to also line up more or less).
b) Yes, but
d) also yes.
c) You can do that. It is the only movement allowed other than moving towards a unit whose TZ you are in.
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Post by felixs on Nov 9, 2017 7:37:15 GMT
My copy is holding up fine, seems quite sturdy.
But: I find the glossiness of the pages an odd choice. Very hard to read if lighting does not come from exactly the right angle.
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Post by felixs on Nov 6, 2017 7:09:19 GMT
The problem with the Ming wagons is that these were especially developed during the Ming. It is not clear to what extent they are based on earlier models.
But I would still go with something that resembles the Ming models quite closely - because we have so little other information.
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Post by felixs on Nov 5, 2017 14:36:49 GMT
Simple answer: We do not know. It is obscure in the Chinese sources and there is not other evidence (that I know of).
I would go with armoured baggage carts.
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Post by felixs on Nov 2, 2017 20:23:58 GMT
Blutack is quite similar to play-doh, right? Just a bit more "tacky" if I understand correctly. I believe that the "poster glue" that some German glue makers sell is more or less the same stuff. Very effective for the job too.
I wish miniature manufacturers would clarify what ammount of assembly their miniatures require. For example, with Essex you really never know.
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Post by felixs on Nov 2, 2017 20:08:24 GMT
You are incredibly productive. And I really enjoy these videos. Thank you!
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Post by felixs on Nov 1, 2017 17:47:28 GMT
Not painting, but preparing a pack (8 miniatures) of Xyston celts. Nice miniatures, totally great. But the ammount of preparation work needed is preposterous. Not only do you have to glue on the shields, which is bad enough, but you seriously have to also drill holes into the hands that hold weapons and then glue a weapon (spears, provided by myself) into that hand. They will work fine with my Kappadokians (also Xyston), but I will try hard to avoid Xyston and other multipart miniatures in the future. Preparation takes as long as painting does...
(BTW, for gluing things on I use two-component epoxy glue. Everything that glues quickly also glues badly in my experience. And gaming pieces will be handled. Anyway, to keep things in place while the glue dries, I have found play-doh like modelling clay to work very well. It is very easy to handle and also is reusable).
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Post by felixs on Oct 30, 2017 21:57:01 GMT
In Knights and Knaves I reduced the Flee Off the table to just Flee on More (so you might stay on table and in any case you can be re-Summoned for 6 PIPs). I got rid of it for Ridden Dragons. Should I get rid of it for all Dragons? I'm planning on giving them the Evade Ability (convert Destroyed on Double to Flee if Stand has a higher MA than opponent), so Dragons can fly away out of Danger (negated by Bows and Mages). Hi Tom, I think this is a matter of points cost and of play balance. Of course, dragons that do not flee the field as easily are much better and should be more expensive to field. Different settings might call for different types of dragons. If there is only going to be one type of unridden dragons, I would either make them relatively cheap, or have them expensive but hard (staying on table). |
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Post by felixs on Oct 29, 2017 21:36:15 GMT
I've finally managed to finish the Dacian army I have been putting off for years. The pictures don't include the sweat and frustration!! On the contrary. They look beautiful. And the time invested in the shield designs was really worth it. Looks great! |
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