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Post by paulisper on Feb 22, 2023 12:42:57 GMT
The full SpeedPaint metallic range is going to be 10 paints, which should cover all requirements đ
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Post by carll on Feb 22, 2023 21:57:03 GMT
I am still learning how speed paints might be similar to or different from washes... but wouldn't most metallic uses be likes of dry brush 'iron' colour over black primer for mail or bronze like colour over black primer for bronze age armour or (especially on smaller figures) bright or dull silver (or bronze) like colour over black primer for swords and spears in iron age (or bronze age)? Or am I simplifying my colour range too much? CarlL
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Post by judebecker on Feb 23, 2023 3:21:43 GMT
Having recently found and liked Vallejo Model Air paints, and concluding they are similar to Citadel Contrast, I wonder what the differences are for that vs. Speedpaint or Vallejo Express?
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Post by jim1973 on Feb 23, 2023 12:31:14 GMT
I am still learning how speed paints might be similar to or different from washes... but wouldn't most metallic uses be likes of dry brush 'iron' colour over black primer for mail or bronze like colour over black primer for bronze age armour or (especially on smaller figures) bright or dull silver (or bronze) like colour over black primer for swords and spears in iron age (or bronze age)? Or am I simplifying my colour range too much? CarlL Hi Carl. We don't have much idea about the metallics. Or about the 2.0 range yet. But the 1.0 were good. Not great but good. So with natural improvement I am hopeful that Army Painter get it (near) right. Unfortunately, the paint developers concentrate on 28mm + models. IMHO 15mm is slightly different (eg using brighter colours to offset the smaller scale) but we'll see. Cheers Jim
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Post by Ken Gordon on Feb 28, 2023 14:29:35 GMT
I use Windsor & Newton General Purpose Matt Varnish and always been pleased with the results đ P A word of warning I use this varnish as well, but recently had a fogging issue. It turns out to be a reaction with isopropyl alcohol. I use this as part of my basing as outlined on this forum here: fanaticus.boards.net/post/40051/threadThe fogging issue was solved by using the olive oil method - but from now on Iâll be basing then varnishing. K
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Post by Les1964 on Apr 15, 2023 12:26:52 GMT
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Post by paddy649 on Apr 24, 2023 19:25:34 GMT
So I spent ÂŁ150 on Citadel Colour paints when they first came out. I experimented with lots of techniques on 15mm figures - the best was Slapchop (Undercoat black, zenithal highlight white and tint the colours as required.) It was OK but I thought often sloppy and tended to run. Needed to thoroughly dry or risk mixing or running. Results were no better than dry brushing and layering with Vallejo. Speed was not substantial faster than my normal technique and possibly slower with rework etc. Also it shook my painting mojo!
In the end I didnât think the benefits outweighed changing my entire painting style so all those paints went onto a B&B to recover what I could. Not the best experiment as I ended up ÂŁ100 down on the deal!
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Post by skb777 on Apr 24, 2023 20:37:27 GMT
They are thicker than washes (about the same consistency as oil( abd dry fairy quickly. I've found them great for larger areas such as horses/chariots. And some of the brighter colours such as yellows/purples and blues are good for uniforms.
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Post by davidjconstable on Apr 24, 2023 21:18:36 GMT
Just a thought for all.
Be careful of bright colours, cloth would have faded in varying degrees. You can bet new recruits arriving at Hadrian's wall would have looked smart compared to those that had been there for a couple of years.
Warbands tend to look nicer if they contain figures of different makes, the build and height varies.
My old camouflage jacket is very faded, it was the only one I was issued.
David Constable
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Post by jim1973 on Apr 25, 2023 10:04:57 GMT
So I spent ÂŁ150 on Citadel Colour paints when they first came out. I experimented with lots of techniques on 15mm figures - the best was Slapchop (Undercoat black, zenithal highlight white and tint the colours as required.) It was OK but I thought often sloppy and tended to run. Needed to thoroughly dry or risk mixing or running. Results were no better than dry brushing and layering with Vallejo. Speed was not substantial faster than my normal technique and possibly slower with rework etc. Also it shook my painting mojo! In the end I didnât think the benefits outweighed changing my entire painting style so all those paints went onto a B&B to recover what I could. Not the best experiment as I ended up ÂŁ100 down on the deal! I have very little experience with Citadel contrast paints. Just a dark skin tone and a magenta from the first range (1.0). They were more blotchy than speedpaint. I think Citadel has improved them with Contrast 2.0. There are some colours that run well but don't do much contrast, nicknamed "flats" that may be very useful at 15mm and to block in colours in 28mm. The trouble is the large choice at the moment between Vallejo, Army Painter, Citadel and Green Stuff World and many of them are quite new. I'm looking to find some time to go through the better youtube videos and make a list for my needs. I don't think historicals need the colour range of the Mega packs and I have a truck load of paints already! Cheers Jim
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Post by Ken Gordon on Apr 25, 2023 20:11:20 GMT
Iâve had mixed results with speedpaints from citadel, army painter and Vallejo. Iâve not bought full sets but a sample of colours with an emphasis on browns and flesh. What Iâve learnt to date is: 1/ The undercoat preferably white or black highlighted with white needs to be good and not blotchy - I made the mistake of using a craft acrylic - poor result. 2/ Flesh and leathers work best for me. I still tend to layer paint clothes and metallics. 3/ I canât resist highlighting speed paints even though they shouldnât need it. 4/ Donât slap it on itâs not a wash or glaze 5/ the better and cleaner the casting the better the results - e.g old figures with bad facial features wonât improve with speed paints. So the jury is still out. What I have done to help me is create a simple test board for all the speed paints I have. Iâve done this because you canât easily see the colour in the bottle. I simply used a piece of plasticard marked up in a grid. Each square has two blotches one on the plain card and one over a blob of pva to get some variation in texture. Not entirely successful but still useful.
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Post by paulisper on Jun 14, 2023 14:58:55 GMT
Individual SpeedPaints in the 2.0 range went on sale this week. Iâve loved the âbrownsâ so far for speeding up the painting of belts, boots, backs of shields, hair and even horses đ, without losing the quality look Iâm after.
So, I have gone and purchased all their new expanded range that cover the âochre-brown-blackâ elements, plus a few others of the darker tones, such as one from the new skin range, totalling around 10 new pots. Finally, Iâve invested in four of the metallics, to cover gold, bronze and silver, and will be interested to see how these work on armour and weaponsâŚ. Will they be good enough to do away with the current 3 stage âblock, wash and highlightsâ technique without a loss in qualityâŚ?
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Post by gregorius on Jun 14, 2023 23:48:17 GMT
Individual SpeedPaints in the 2.0 range went on sale this week. Iâve loved the âbrownsâ so far for speeding up the painting of belts, boots, backs of shields, hair and even horses đ, without losing the quality look Iâm after. So, I have gone and purchased all their new expanded range that cover the âochre-brown-blackâ elements, plus a few others of the darker tones, such as one from the new skin range, totalling around 10 new pots. Finally, Iâve invested in four of the metallics, to cover gold, bronze and silver, and will be interested to see how these work on armour and weaponsâŚ. Will they be good enough to do away with the current 3 stage âblock, wash and highlightsâ technique without a loss in qualityâŚ? P Paul, I'd be interested in your thoughts on the metallic Speedpaints. Cheers,
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Post by jim1973 on Jun 15, 2023 1:14:45 GMT
Individual SpeedPaints in the 2.0 range went on sale this week. Iâve loved the âbrownsâ so far for speeding up the painting of belts, boots, backs of shields, hair and even horses đ, without losing the quality look Iâm after. So, I have gone and purchased all their new expanded range that cover the âochre-brown-blackâ elements, plus a few others of the darker tones, such as one from the new skin range, totalling around 10 new pots. Finally, Iâve invested in four of the metallics, to cover gold, bronze and silver, and will be interested to see how these work on armour and weaponsâŚ. Will they be good enough to do away with the current 3 stage âblock, wash and highlightsâ technique without a loss in qualityâŚ? Block/Wash/Highlight? That's expert level, particularly for 15s. I just Block and Wash. But I've found I still wash after Speedpaint on most occasions to increase the depth of shading. Still enjoy the Speedpaint for its... speed. Most of the warm colors are excellent. If using Speedpaint 1.0 you need to let it dry, dry, dry before washing. Mine sit overnight. That minimizes the chance of reactivation. If you're lucky, you get a tiny amount of reactivation allowing for a tiny thinning of the Speedpaint color on the raised bits to give a free highlight! Cheers Jim
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Post by paulisper on Jun 15, 2023 6:34:45 GMT
Reactivation of the 1.0 range is a significant issue and Iâve always Matt varnished after finishing the SpeedPaint part of the job, which solved the problem. SpeedPaint 2.0 was partly developed to remove this issue, so itâll be interesting to see if I still need to varnish when using 2.0âŚ
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