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Post by Cromwell on Mar 15, 2021 9:21:26 GMT
I originally post this on the "To The Strongest" forum as I mainly fight English Civil War using the "For King and Parliament" rules. But I am interested on any suggestions people here may like to give.
My English Civil War collection is in 28mm (old eyes syndrome).
This coupled with a small gaming space means making compromises. My main interest is the New Model Army so I set about creating a New Model Army with my 28mm figures.
The Historical New Model Army was set up with 12 regiments of Foot each with 1200 men 1/3 being Pike
The Cavalry was 10 regiments of 600 men
A single regiment of Dragoons of 1000 men.
Sucking my pencil and playing with figures I realised if I reduced everything to a third I could do it.
Therefore I have:
4 regiments of Foot (1 regiment representing 3) each containing 12 figures 4 of which are pikes Each figure represents 100 men.
3 regiments of Horse (Each regiment representing 3.3) Each regiment containing 6 figures again each figure is 100 men.
1 regiment of Dragoons formed by 10 figures each representing 100 men.
Each regiment is given the name of an actual commander with flag and musician.
Artillery is one gun model.
Obviously I have worked with the paper strengths and most units were under manned in reality.
The other anomaly is the Dragoons. I am toying with the idea of keeping the one regiment but reducing the man power by a third but this would give the unit only 3 to 4 figures.
Not sure of a good work around for this yet.
Any suggestions?
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Post by snowcat on Mar 15, 2021 11:14:40 GMT
Just stick with 1 unit:1 regiment for the dragoons. You've bathtubbed everything else sufficiently. A single unit (10 figures) of dragoons will not look remotely out of place, i.e. disproportionately numerous compared with the rest of the army, just because you didn't apply the '1/3 rule' to it. There is no need to apply the 1/3 rule to a single unit anyway; it's about reducing the number of units down to something more manageable, which is what you've already achieved. You've divided the bigger numbers down into smaller numbers, the smallest of which should not be less than 1.
If it was originally a smaller formation than the others, like a company or two, then you'd go smaller, and represent this with 3 or 4 figures.
Cheers
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Post by hammurabi70 on Mar 15, 2021 20:36:44 GMT
I confess small gaming space and 28mm seems something of an OXYMORON but then the only 28mm figures I have ever had are gladiators. Could you not reduce infantry units to three figures each [one pike and two shot] and use dice or casualty markers to show strength or casualties. Other units would be condensed proportionately. This would also help reduce the space required.
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Post by Cromwell on Mar 16, 2021 8:48:06 GMT
Just stick with 1 unit:1 regiment for the dragoons. You've bathtubbed everything else sufficiently. A single unit (10 figures) of dragoons will not look remotely out of place, i.e. disproportionately numerous compared with the rest of the army, just because you didn't apply the '1/3 rule' to it. There is no need to apply the 1/3 rule to a single unit anyway; it's about reducing the number of units down to something more manageable, which is what you've already achieved. You've divided the bigger numbers down into smaller numbers, the smallest of which should not be less than 1. If it was originally a smaller formation than the others, like a company or two, then you'd go smaller, and represent this with 3 or 4 figures. Cheers You have echoed my thoughts on this. I will keep the dragoons as they are. Also interestingly with the cavalry, by having the regiment made up of 6 figures I can split the regiment into troops if that is required. |
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Post by Cromwell on Mar 16, 2021 9:07:35 GMT
I confess small gaming space and 28mm seems something of an OXYMORON but then the only 28mm figures I have ever had are gladiators. Could you not reduce infantry units to three figures each [one pike and two shot] and use dice or casualty markers to show strength or casualties. Other units would be condensed proportionately. This would also help reduce the space required. I game on a 4'x4' table for my English Civil war. The "For King and Parliament" rules are played on a grid. My table grid is 8 boxes by 8 boxes. The units fit on well and there is still room to manouvre. I do not think regiments of foot made up of 1 x Pikeman and 2 x musketeers would look right. Especially as each of my regiments has an Ensign and musician, NCO or Officer. I would end up with regiments somewhat over officered! What I have also done with my New Model Army and Royalist Army is name each regiment of Foot and Horse and given them where possible the correct flag and coat colour and in case of the Foot coat facings. Although information is sketchy on this at the best. Even more so when it comes to the Royalist Army I originally was going to model the King's Oxford Army but turned it more generic as I wanted to include the West Country Regiment of Colonel Richard Bolle who was an ancestor of mine. I also wanted to included Newcastles Northern White Coats. Information on coat colours and flags is very poor for the Royalists. My research showed that Col Bolle's regiment wore either blue or red coats but no clue as to shade and that the flags were white. Each army I have also modeled the commander in Chief, Lt General's of Horse and Foot, Lt General of Ordnance and Army Chaplain. Master Bole for the New Model and Michael Hudson for the Royalists. I am now waiting to get figures to represent the Scout Masters and Surgeons for both armies. |
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Post by martin on Mar 16, 2021 10:18:03 GMT
I confess small gaming space and 28mm seems something of an OXYMORON but then the only 28mm figures I have ever had are gladiators. Could you not reduce infantry units to three figures each [one pike and two shot] and use dice or casualty markers to show strength or casualties. Other units would be condensed proportionately. This would also help reduce the space required. I game on a 4'x4' table for my English Civil war. The "For King and Parliament" rules are played on a grid. My table grid is 8 boxes by 8 boxes. The units fit on well and there is still room to manouvre. I do not think regiments of foot made up of 1 x Pikeman and 2 x musketeers would look right. Especially as each of my regiments has an Ensign and musician, NCO or Officer. I would end up with regiments somewhat over officered! What I have also done with my New Model Army and Royalist Army is name each regiment of Foot and Horse and given them where possible the correct flag and coat colour and in case of the Foot coat facings. Although information is sketchy on this at the best. Even more so when it comes to the Royalist Army I originally was going to model the King's Oxford Army but turned it more generic as I wanted to include the West Country Regiment of Colonel Richard Bolle who was an ancestor of mine. I also wanted to included Newcastles Northern White Coats. Information on coat colours and flags is very poor for the Royalists. My research showed that Col Bolle's regiment wore either blue or red coats but no clue as to shade and that the flags were white. Each army I have also modeled the commander in Chief, Lt General's of Horse and Foot, Lt General of Ordnance and Army Chaplain. Master Bole for the New Model and Michael Hudson for the Royalists. I am now waiting to get figures to represent the Scout Masters and Surgeons for both armies. I expect you’re aware of these sources, Cromwell (?)- bcw-project.org/military/www.keepyourpowderdry.co.uk/search/label/Research ....especially the left side menus with flags etc |
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Post by hammurabi70 on Mar 17, 2021 0:01:12 GMT
I confess small gaming space and 28mm seems something of an OXYMORON but then the only 28mm figures I have ever had are gladiators. Could you not reduce infantry units to three figures each [one pike and two shot] and use dice or casualty markers to show strength or casualties. Other units would be condensed proportionately. This would also help reduce the space required. I game on a 4'x4' table for my English Civil war. The "For King and Parliament" rules are played on a grid. My table grid is 8 boxes by 8 boxes. The units fit on well and there is still room to manouvre. I do not think regiments of foot made up of 1 x Pikeman and 2 x musketeers would look right. Especially as each of my regiments has an Ensign and musician, NCO or Officer. I would end up with regiments somewhat over officered! What I have also done with my New Model Army and Royalist Army is name each regiment of Foot and Horse and given them where possible the correct flag and coat colour and in case of the Foot coat facings. Although information is sketchy on this at the best. Even more so when it comes to the Royalist Army I originally was going to model the King's Oxford Army but turned it more generic as I wanted to include the West Country Regiment of Colonel Richard Bolle who was an ancestor of mine. I also wanted to included Newcastles Northern White Coats. Information on coat colours and flags is very poor for the Royalists. My research showed that Col Bolle's regiment wore either blue or red coats but no clue as to shade and that the flags were white. Each army I have also modeled the commander in Chief, Lt General's of Horse and Foot, Lt General of Ordnance and Army Chaplain. Master Bole for the New Model and Michael Hudson for the Royalists. I am now waiting to get figures to represent the Scout Masters and Surgeons for both armies. A four foot square gaming area does not seem so small! Then again did not DBA with 28mm once stipulate a single figure on a base for a Psiloi unit? Will shrinking the number of units by such bath tubing fit your requirements in terms of fighting the battles? Only you can judge that. |
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