|
|
Post by wyvern on Jan 17, 2020 21:27:15 GMT
Hi all,
It's seemed to me time to plumb the depths of the knowledge and experience of the members of Fanaticus once again. At the moment I am using some Little Big Man transfers. They are nice to look at but I have found I'm having a few problems with them. I have applied them as directed, but I have found that after painting up to the transfer eg. on a hoplite shield, the transfer is still noticeable. I can still see the outline of it, even if I try and disguise it with using two different colours. I've also found that painting up to the transfer can be tricky too, as a capillary action of any slight wrinkle sucks paint across the design of the transfer. Have you guys used them? How did you find them?
Cheers, Paul.
|
|
|
|
Post by mark leslie on Jan 18, 2020 3:48:46 GMT
My experiences seem to have been similar to yours. A couple( maybe three or fourish) of years ago I did a mixture of LBMS transfers and hand painted shields for some ancient Italians. The transfers are pretty and have small intricate designs I can't replicate by hand, the draw back does seem to be the edge of the transfer. Though I new this would be a problem since I was using five(?) different manufacturers for figures with two different LBMS transfer sheets, one of which was not intended for any of the figures I was using. My only remedy was to do my best to disguise that edge as best I could with paint, some added difficulty for domed shields because I couldn't avoid wrinkling (as you mentioned) and the straw effect sucking up everything. So basically, don't know that there's much to be done other than trying to blend in that edge as best you can and avoid close up photos.  *Forgot to mention, newer is better. Used some transfers years ago no problem, used them again last year and they were almost impossible to remove from the transparent face. |
|
|
|
Post by wyvern on Jan 18, 2020 15:30:19 GMT
It's reassuring to know it's not just me.
I tend to use contacting colours on the shield to distract the eye away from the transfer edge .Also patterns around the edge of the shield also help achieve this.
I've beggared up umpteen figures trying to get the shield right.
Also,interestingly enough I haven't experienced any difficulty with the more old fashioned transfers.
|
|
|
|
Post by redrob on Jan 18, 2020 16:06:59 GMT
§Do you use decal solvents? one type makes the decal wrinkly then like magic smoothes it out. The second type sort of melts the decal film so that the edge disappears. You then gloss cote the shield which should hide any edge traces. That works for me anyhow.
|
|
|
|
Post by rhaksha on Jan 18, 2020 20:50:40 GMT
Gloss varnish is brilliant for blending transfer edges.
|
|
|
|
Post by wyvern on Jan 18, 2020 21:01:52 GMT
Thanks for the feedback guys. I've had a go at painting shields by hand this evening. I think as long as it's not too complicated a design it looks quite effective. Roman shields will be a challenge, with the laurel wreaths and all that!
|
|
|
|
Post by pawsbill on Jan 19, 2020 15:31:33 GMT
The best thing to do is finish all painting and then a gloss varnish before you apply the transfers. Then apply a second coat of varnish (gloss, satin or matt) after applying the transfer. This should aid adhesion and bed down the transfer and cover up most of the outline.
|
|
