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Post by felixs on May 3, 2017 13:05:56 GMT
I will not be re-basing any of my old units on 20mm and any new units of 4Sp/4Bd/4Pk will be on 15mm as well. I like the look of them on the 15mm stands. Totally understandable. I think it really depends on the minis in question (whether they fit and how dynamic their poses are), the units depicted and, of course, taste. Your armies, Tony, should surely not be tinkered with I just thought of another reason why an extra 5mm could be nice: Less likely to fall over. This is often an issue, especially in terrain and up or downhill.
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Post by felixs on May 3, 2017 7:48:39 GMT
Very good point. And one that I missed. I have some re-basing to do (do not like some of my bases anymore. Cardboard tends to warp, plus I would like to redo some of the terrain on it). So thank you very much for bringing this up.
I will test this with paper counters and see whether I like the 20mm bases.
Ease of play is certainly in favour of this. Equal recoil distances are a lot easier to do and less fiddly. Having to watch out for 5mm difference has not been my favourite thing to do in DBA so far. Aesthetics are a matter of personal taste - probably 20mm looks better in most cases. Pikes and Spear might look better on 15mm bases, but since Spear rear support is no more, this argument gets weaker. With Pikes 20mm give more room to accomodate the pikes, especially with shields. 20mm is probably better. (I based the Spears of my Amazon army for HotT on 20mm bases anyway. The bases of the miniatures would not have fitted on 15mm... Look good.).
The only potential problem I see: Would anything be lost in troop interaction? As it stands, 15mm and 20mm troops mixed together do not make as good a battle line as those of exclusively either 15mm or 20mm. Recoils seriously distort such lines and they require more PIP's to repair than those of only one element depth. So much for the game effect. But is this important for any (historical) tactic to work? I cannot think of any. It even seems to me that better interaction (i.e. both 20mm) between legionaries and auxilaries would be more historical. For Warband armies, having everything on 20mm bases would remove a lot of strangeness (Often the general is on 15mm 4Wb because the general would be Reg(ular) or (S)uperior in DBM(M). This does not translate well to DBA). For medieval battles, better interaction between Blades and Bow would also be good, I assume?
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Post by felixs on May 1, 2017 11:33:18 GMT
Felix, I have some streams from BB560. I pulled them out this evening to double check the width. Including the banks they are 31mm wide so ideal for DBA. I hope that's of some use. Thank you! That is very kind and much appreciated. Now I might need to do both... ^^
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Post by felixs on May 1, 2017 9:33:40 GMT
You should not have any difficulty finding the material at a Gamma, Hubo or any building supplier.
This past weekend I finished a dry river bed (wadi) and gully for my arid terrain. These will be used for an planned battle in a few weeks, but first I need to paint one more army for this. I have some leftover PVC flooring material in storage. That should probably be fine. I might just try this next week... And "painting just one more army" is the beauty of DBA ^^
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Post by felixs on Apr 30, 2017 20:44:37 GMT
Thank you. I will now need to find some vinyl floortines somewhere.
Looks great.
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Post by felixs on Apr 30, 2017 20:23:04 GMT
Thank you. That is very helpful!
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Post by felixs on Apr 30, 2017 18:55:24 GMT
Dear all,
in recent editions of DBA, Wb that gave rear support would die if the fighting (front) element died. (I hope I remember this correctly).
Now, in DBA 3, this is not the case anymore. The Wb in the rear would survive. Is that correct?
Thank you!
Felix
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Post by felixs on Apr 27, 2017 7:40:39 GMT
It's possible to invest in some really nice river such as noted above. It's also possible just to make simple ones get some blue felt from the local fabric store or craft shop, cut it into strips. Take a white crayon and lightly draw some lines to represent the current. Get some blue masking or duct. Draw some white lines on it to look like running water and stick it down on the battlefield. I have cut strips of balsa wood into 40 mm, painted them dark blue, and then spread two part epoxy over the surface to get a water effect. You could also use water material from a model train store. Also take a look miniature world maker who make beautiful rivers from latex rubber. miniatureworldmaker.com.au/products/id-6532/productlist/p-2/In an emergence, the felt method surely works. But I would prefer something nicer looking. Thank you for the link. It does not seem to work presently, but I will try again later. But shipping from Australia would be prohibitively high anyway, European (including, of course, UK) sources would be much better.
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Post by felixs on Apr 27, 2017 7:34:39 GMT
It is actually simple work that requires very little tools and material. Tomorrow I have a number terrain projects planned that require similar technique. I will take photos so I can have a tutorial ready to post by the weekend. Great. Thank you! I look forward to that very much!
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Post by felixs on Apr 26, 2017 13:30:54 GMT
Your rivers look great, as does all of your terrain.
I assume that you mean that you made them yourself?
That would also be an option, even though I find rivers relatively difficult. Are there directions anywhere on how to make rivers such as those?
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Post by felixs on Apr 26, 2017 11:36:44 GMT
The rules state that a river "cannot be wider than 1 BW" (pg. 6). This means 40mm for 15mm scale.
Most commercially available rivers are a lot wider than that. Is there any vendor that sells rivers that would be the correct size for DBA?
Gale Force Nine's BB560 "Streams", from the "Battlefield in a Box" series, might be the right size, but I cannot find any information as to how wide they are. Does anyone know?
Thank you!
Felix
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Post by felixs on Apr 25, 2017 11:11:22 GMT
Thank you. That is how we played it. Otherwise re-arranging recoils and the like would be much less of a problem.
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Post by felixs on Apr 25, 2017 8:58:59 GMT
Hello everyone,
I encountered something in the rules that caught me unprepared:
Pg. 8 of the rules says: "In each bound, the first move of each single element or column uses 0 PIPs if it is entirely by road, moves until it contacts enemy or friends or moves its full tactical move distance, and does not reverse direction."
a) Does this mean that every element can move straight forward for its full move, regardless of how far it is from the general, without paying even a single PIP? (So basicalle, you can always advance and attack
b) Or does it mean "In each bound, the first move of each single element or column uses 0 PIPs if it is entirely by road, AND moves until it contacts enemy or friends or moves its full tactical move distance, and does not reverse direction."
i.e. this is only true if moving on a road?
If it is in fact a), has it always been that way in DBA? (It seems new to me, we never played it that way...)
Thank you!
Felix
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