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Post by timurilank on Jun 5, 2022 6:28:46 GMT
Next on the list of projects, I have completed the dwellings for a green skin encampment.
Inspiration for these came from an old Warhammer Army publication.
After the holiday, work will continue with the fortification pieces, completing the set.
Photos next week.
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Post by timurilank on Jun 9, 2022 16:39:48 GMT
Next on the list of projects, I have completed the dwellings for a green skin encampment. Inspiration for these came from an old Warhammer Army publication. After the holiday, work will continue with the fortification pieces, completing the set. Photos next week. Terrain pieces done. Photos and a brief description will be uploaded Saturday. Very pleased with the result. |
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Post by timurilank on Jun 11, 2022 8:24:27 GMT
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Post by vodnik on Jun 11, 2022 8:52:45 GMT
...a great camp...
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Post by gregorius on Jun 11, 2022 22:43:36 GMT
Very nice Robert.
Cheers,
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Post by nangwaya on Jun 12, 2022 2:56:18 GMT
I think that is the most structures I have seen for one camp. Very impressive.
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Post by timurilank on Jun 18, 2022 15:09:07 GMT
I think that is the most structures I have seen for one camp. Very impressive. I have plenty of round bases and as soon as the local retailer receives stock of Milliput, the nomadic armies will have their yurts and the later medieval armies their tents. |
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Post by nangwaya on Jun 19, 2022 8:46:16 GMT
Your technique has got me thinking about trying it out on some BUA's I would like to make.
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Post by timurilank on Jun 19, 2022 10:01:34 GMT
Your technique has got me thinking about trying it out on some BUA's I would like to make. Good for you. A few tips. Doors and windows are made from cardstock and glued to the correct height on a strip of card. This allows you to press the features into place while the Milliput is soft. With a modelling knife (moistened tip) you can add details. Allow each step (walls) to thoroughly harden as subsequent steps (roofing) can easily be trimmed accident free with a modelling knife. Start small, by that I mean work with small portions of Milliput. Milliput usually take 3 hours to harden, which allows you to add portions that you missed. If you prepare too much, then be prepared to build something else, such as rock formations. |
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Post by carll on Jun 19, 2022 22:20:01 GMT
Timurilank / (Robert?)
Like the camp a lot. The faces at the gateway gave me ideas for West Sudanese where they still used facemasks if only with their 'Juju' "priests" (cant recall their name for Joujou practitioners) activity or encouragement. I dont know anything about orcs but it looks good. I assumed the green suggests skin used on the huts to be orc (or another creatures) hide?
If you want to use less milliput you could try likes of soft foam 'boards' / sheets sold in many craft shops like hobbycraft, in lively colours. This can be cut easily and stuck easily with likes of pva (but long drying time and might need small clamps in place while drying) so it could be wrapped around a tube to give hut sides or a circle cut then a radius cut, possibly cutting out a small slice so it can be formed into cone for roof. You can cut out doorways etc and reinforce space with card insert for door or window shutters. The roof can be reinforced with card too if needed. Details like your zip like sewing of pieces could be added before glueing with a pen pressing into foam, or even real stitches put in if you are ok with needle, thread and thimble!
CarlL
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Post by carll on Jun 19, 2022 22:37:16 GMT
PS When using small portions of milliput for conversion work on figures, I often use more hardener than the 50-50 mix advised which cuts down drying time, (sometimes to 10 to 20mins) but this short drying time may also reflect I am only using small amounts to change clothing, or create a shield, or hat, or fill in gaps or create a new saddle or saddle cloth.
I guess you are using big thicknesses of milliput?
So another alternative (to my foam idea above) might be a mix of PVA / DIY filler / paint to match colour you want (I use emulsion tester pots or smooth cement paints or cheap acrylics) and make it into a good paste. This would give smooth texture when applied (with likes of a pallette knife although I have used stiff hogs bristle brushes too but need washing out quickly) straight onto a cardboard roll (for hut walls) or even onto cardboard cone for roof, but needs to be stiff mix to avoid run off (ie not much liquid like paint and not a runny pva but sticky builders pva). If using this 'paste' technique I would assemble walls (with door insert or rather exterior to cardboard roll add on) and roof and stick to likes of circular mdf base first and allow to dry overnight before applying the texture 'paste' surface.
If you were using to make soil or mud walls for other creatures I might add some play sand (or similar) to mix to give it a slight texture that could be dry brushed when all else is dry.
CarlL
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Post by carll on Jun 19, 2022 22:48:20 GMT
PPS
I forgot to add that you could probably use this paste method over your pink foam, as I have used it on grey / black styrofoam (aka XPS foam).
When stipple like action with half inch stiff brush works well. See the course mixes I added in my Western Sudanese buildings.
The mix (or any excess) can be stored in old plastic containers from yoghurt pots to old taster paint pots so long as lid has airtight seal. And so re-used later or modified with change of colour. (And makes good earth mix if grit and sand added, and colour to taste, to go round your mdf base of hut when walls are dry.
CarlL
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Post by jim1973 on Jun 19, 2022 23:18:55 GMT
Lovely work! Big fan of nice terrain for DBA.
If you need more scatter you could make an animal skin drying on a X-frame with twigs and a small bit of thin card.
Bake the twigs to kill the bacteria.
Tear the card to the appropriate size and shape (tearing gives nice rough natural edges).
Soak the card in water:PVA (50:50) and scrunch it up to give a more natural texture. Then glue it down and paint.
Cheers
Jim
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Post by timurilank on Jun 20, 2022 11:22:46 GMT
Lovely work! Big fan of nice terrain for DBA. If you need more scatter you could make an animal skin drying on a X-frame with twigs and a small bit of thin card. Bake the twigs to kill the bacteria. Tear the card to the appropriate size and shape (tearing gives nice rough natural edges). Soak the card in water:PVA (50:50) and scrunch it up to give a more natural texture. Then glue it down and paint. Cheers Jim , The encampment does lack the decorations you suggested and will be done at a later date. I have the Citadel Skulls that will adorn a few huts and place as litter around the palisades. Goblins are actually kind to animals, but the flayed skin of a Dwarf might work instead. As a centre piece, I do plan an alter (more skulls) for the shaman. |
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Post by timurilank on Jun 20, 2022 11:24:11 GMT
CarlL
Thanks for the tips.
I have used foam board in the past, not only buildings, but the material was useful for hills and such.
In time, I found the material was not as durable when compared with what I use now.
Using Milliput will require some experience, but in time you will know just how much to prepare for
different projects and how long you should spend with each piece before moving on to the next.
Note, all projects are designed for 15mm use.
Buildings for example, I will make six at a time as this is enough to create variation for different size BUA templates.
The thickness of applied Milliput depends on the detailing I will eventually need; doorways are nice if they are recessed,
thatching looks nice if uneven, whereas roof tiles should appear straight.
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