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Post by jim1973 on Oct 2, 2020 12:57:55 GMT
Have you had that feeling when your newly painted Vikings pursue the Welsh warband into terrain only to fall over backwards from the lip and bend their spears? (I'm looking at you Splintered Light! Beautiful figures). Heavy Infantry on 15mm bases are top heavy and topple easily. Two years ago I did all of my terrain on 6mm cork tile. I spent hours carving the edges to what I thought was an easy slope but the still toppled, much to my frustration. But then I stumbled on the following videos on youtube using acrylic caulk to make battlemats: Terrain TutorTerrain Tutor 2Terrain Tutor 3RFDHobbyOnce you watch these you can make your own battlemat. But I got the next idea for DBA terrain that won't flip your heavy infantry. |
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Post by jim1973 on Oct 2, 2020 13:24:47 GMT
Here's what I did (products listed are readily available at Bunnings in Australia):
1) Watch the videos
2) Iron out then nail canvas drop cloth to scrap MDF (Unipro Canvas Dropcloth 1.5mx0.6m). This was to stop warping.
3) Mix acrylic caulk (Parfix white gap filler 475g) with cheap acrylic paint (Crafty Colour Raw Umber) and fine sand (sift the sand!). Use the ratios given by the Terrain Tutor (awesome youtube channel). I used a splash of isopropyl alcohol to make the mix easier. The white of the filler makes colouring difficult and you end up with a pale tan goop.
4) Spread over the canvas evenly. If you didn't sift the sand the occasional large chunk will gouge lines but they are easily fixed. Should get about 50x50cm coverage.
5) Allow to cure!!!!
6) Mark off sections with a marker for your terrain pieces.
7) Use extra caulk at this time to create texture. Really easy to make plough! Allow to cure!!!!
8) Paint, flock, decorate, etc. Allow to dry.
9) Seal with spray Matt sealer (Boyle)
10) Cut it out. Sharp scissors. Sharp blades. (Underneath of a coffee cup makes a great temporary sharpening stone!)
11) Paint edges with small mix of dark brown paint, PVA and water if you don't want the material showing or you want to reinforce the edges against fraying.
I got 4 pieces of plough, 5 generic pieces (I cover them with loose trees, buildings or bushes as required) and 3 marshes (I needed two applications of the Realist Water from Back 2 Bas-ix to get the effect) with some left over waiting for inspiration. They are about 2mm high. No more toppling. Flexible and sit flat.
Now for another round to get roads, dunes, etc
Cheers
Jim
PS Would love to put up photos but can't get them on
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Post by Tony Aguilar on Oct 2, 2020 13:33:18 GMT
Thanks for the links.
I haven't checked out TTT in a while since I have been making my own videos and painting to them instead of watching his material.
I do like his energy level and how he "cracks on."
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Post by gregorius on Oct 2, 2020 22:13:19 GMT
Thanks for the links. I haven't checked out TTT in a while since I have been making my own videos and painting to them instead of watching his material. I do like his energy level and how he "cracks on." Tony, Mel has been quite ill of late. Suffering a COVID scare and a case of tuberculosis. Thankfully he has made a recovery and he is expecting to be recording videos shortly. Cheers, |
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Post by jim1973 on Oct 24, 2020 7:16:09 GMT
Now that I can get some photos up, here are the final products. I ended up with 15 pieces (3 Marsh, 4 Plough, 5 Generic, 2 Rocky and 1 yet to be purposed). They stack easy so are good for storage. Even heavy infantry on 15mm bases can hold their line reasonably well (the grass tufts give the most problems!).    I think this technique will work well for roads. Also for rivers and waterway by using different paints to colour and some water effects. Maybe do some more marshes with bluer water than the muddy effect here. Cheers Jim |
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Post by Baldie on Oct 24, 2020 9:49:58 GMT
They look great.
I am experimenting with some tabletop protector material I got from a fabric store.
My partner makes pet beds and goes for material regularly, I go along sometimes as it is great to get terrain cloths from.
I have sea, grass, city base, desert and space cloths really cheap.
Not as good as the mouse mat terrain cloths but as I state, really cheap.
I went with her to get some material for some BA dice bags and had a look at the tabletop protector material. It is rough on one side so should take paint/glue well. The other side is a bit fluffy to hold onto and protect a table so should grip ok.
Error I may have made is to get a really thin one where I think that a thicker one may have wanted to lay flatter.
With a bit of sand on though it will change.
Want o do fully, marsh, rocky ground with it.
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Post by jim1973 on Oct 24, 2020 10:07:09 GMT
I think I know the stuff. Maybe take a test piece and coat it in PVA to see how much it absorbs water based stuff and if it shrinks/curls? I find it so annoying when the piece I'm working turns into a cylinder!
Cheers
Jim
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Post by Baldie on Oct 24, 2020 10:40:32 GMT
Will do some experiments and let you know, I do have some thin wood from the rear of a wardrobe but cutting door mats and materials is so much easier.
I dislike totally flat terrain but do accept it is much more sensible.
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Post by jim1973 on Oct 25, 2020 6:11:38 GMT
I just tried some faux leather strips for roads. Smothered them with caulk mixed with a bit of paint and sand for texture then used a point to make some ruts. Now curing before painting but so far so good.
Jim
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Post by greedo on Oct 25, 2020 18:23:02 GMT
The Terrain Tutor guy is coming out with a book of all his techniques (kickstarter).
The stuff he does is amazing:
The kickstarter is over, but I'm sure you'd be able to pick it up once it's out (should be out by XMas).
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Post by jim1973 on Oct 29, 2020 20:57:17 GMT
Unfortunately the faux leather road strips looked good but curled up along the sides. Worth experimenting though. Not sure if thus will happen with the thicker material when it's cut long and thin for a road or river. Waterways are probably wide enough to resist.
Cheers
Jim
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