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Post by Vic on May 2, 2019 10:29:29 GMT
Hi all,
I have a question regarding handmade spears. I've been making some long spears for a Melanesian army out of inexpensive piano wire and it got me wondering - for those of you who use wire or other materials for self-made spears, do you make those pointy or do use them more or less blunt from cutting? If you do make them point-shaped, how do you go about it?
Thanks,
- Vic
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Post by rhaksha on May 2, 2019 14:15:35 GMT
I flatten the cut end with a small hammer then using a rotary tool or hand file I shape the flat end into a nice point. They end up looking nice, but you do have to be careful.
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Post by martin on May 2, 2019 14:21:50 GMT
I flatten the cut end with a small hammer then using a rotary tool or hand file I shape the flat end into a nice point. They end up looking nice, but you do have to be careful. Similar but different. I sharpen to a point first like sharpening a pencil, using a rotary sanding disc or similar, then thwack the end with a hammer....produces a leaf shape. rhaksha’s method is good, but I’m lazier, I guess.... Time consuming, but I always do a big batch at once to reduce the set up time with tooling etc. |
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Post by paddy649 on May 2, 2019 18:07:10 GMT
I’m even lazier and go to Xyston.
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Post by martin on May 2, 2019 18:25:41 GMT
I’m even lazier and go to Xyston. Ah, but I’m both lazy AND tight, Paddy.....so only occasionally do the Xyston thang. Usually use 1/32” (or 32 thou /.8mm) brass rod from the railway modelling shop, with just the right level of stiffness and splattability (or malleability, as the experts might say). |
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Post by paddy649 on May 2, 2019 18:55:23 GMT
I’m even lazier and go to Xyston. Ah, but I’m both lazy AND tight, Paddy.....so only occasionally do the Xyston thang. Usually use 1/32” (or 32 thou /.8mm) brass rod from the railway modelling shop, with just the right level of stiffness and splattability (or malleability, as the experts might say). LOL! I think Youngs Modulus maybe the more technical term although “splatability” is far more descriptive. |
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Post by martin on May 2, 2019 19:01:33 GMT
Ex engineer, Paddy....terms like “thwack it with a Mark 1 modulator” just slip off the tongue, unlike the technically correct terminology 😊....
Yes, I’d recommend the Xyston ones (back to the thread....)
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Post by Baldie on May 2, 2019 19:46:00 GMT
I just use florists wire now cheap as chips, solid and slightly less likely to take your eyeball out.
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Post by paddy649 on May 2, 2019 22:02:23 GMT
Ex engineer, Paddy....terms like “thwack it with a Mark 1 modulator” just slip off the tongue, unlike the technically correct terminology 😊.... Yes, I’d recommend the Xyston ones (back to the thread....) I still are an engineer........and a firm believer in the theory that “if you only have a hammer then all problems are nails.” I do like the Xyston spears though even if I think that the quality control would probably be better with handmade spears.....but that is probably more a reflection of my OCD more than Xyston’s spears. |
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Post by Cromwell on May 3, 2019 7:22:32 GMT
My nurse says I am not allowed near sharp pointed objects  |
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Post by martin on May 3, 2019 7:54:57 GMT
I still are an engineer........and a firm believer in the theory that “if you only have a hammer then all problems are nails.” I do like the Xyston spears though even if I think that the quality control would probably be better with handmade spears.....but that is probably more a reflection of my OCD more than Xyston’s spears. “Bigger hammer”...fixes many things, indeed. Donnington do some other spears which are in their EQ range (not the ones they used to sell under Xyston, ANC20065, now on Scotia Grendel as £7 for 50, but 50mm long)....more ‘leaf-like’ points, and a better product IMHO. On the Ancient and Modern website you can search them under EQ09....= 20 x leaf tipped spears, 40mm long, £2.75 (or EQ08 if you want pin shaped tips, eg for lances/pikes), roughly the same price per item. |
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Post by jdesmond on May 4, 2019 5:39:59 GMT
Salutations !
How I do it:
.020" brass wire. Prime. Paint spear-shaft color
Cut into proper lengths. Hold in spring clothespins, cross-clomp tweezers, etc
Dip one end into silver paint to depth of 'spearhead'. Let dry, point down
This should get you good-looking spearheads. If not, can be reshaped with fingernail, ect.
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Post by goragrad on May 4, 2019 9:42:49 GMT
To date I have just gone with the piano wire 'un-pointed' for the longer pike/kontos. Used other wire for javelins.
For some spear armed figures and shorter lances I have also used sewing pins with the heads cut off. Pointed but not spearheaded...
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Post by markhinds on Dec 9, 2019 21:07:07 GMT
I start with brass wire and anneal just the end which is to become the spear point by heating it quickly until it glows. I heat the end quickly to avoid also heating the spear shaft, which I do not want to anneal, for obvious reasons. I use resistance soldering tweezers, but a propane torch or gas stove flame works too. I later squash the annealed (softened) head using flat-jaw pliers, and file to the shape of the spearhead.
I used to think I needed to let the spearhead cool slowly to retain the annealing, and that quick cooling would harden the brass. Apparently that is not correct for most brass, however, which will remain annealed regardless of how quickly it is cooled. This is in contrast to ferrous alloys.
MH
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Post by wyvern on Dec 16, 2019 20:49:58 GMT
I saw a tutorial on YouTube. The chap on it was demonstrating how to use plastic fibres from an ordinary household broom. It's quite simple ,cut one off. Cut it to the length you need. Flatten one end out ,then make a point by cutting it to shape. The good thing about this is , it's really quick, cheap and the pikes and spears can bend and then straighten out again.
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