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Post by vtsaogames on Aug 28, 2019 11:05:09 GMT
Bury the figures with you. Perhaps the only way of affording a lead lined coffin 😉. Cheers, What would the archaeologists of the future make of that? Strange cult? Not that far off, actually.
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Post by paddy649 on Aug 28, 2019 12:01:09 GMT
Does that explain the Terracotta Army? An ancient Chinese Emperor’s life size DBA army. Any evidence of a giant terracotta D6? I wonder where the matched pair is?
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Post by Baldie on Aug 28, 2019 18:46:14 GMT
I expect they will end up in the skip
"Dont worry he always told me they were really cheap, so probably not worth anything"
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Post by weddier on Aug 29, 2019 3:01:17 GMT
I start out batch painting, but by the time I am approaching finishing the figures, I have done so much differential work on each that they become individual projects. I mostly do unarmored armies, so better than half the figures are skin and plain wool or linen color. That goes pretty fast. Then you know the advice, "Paint one with a green shirt, another with green pants, a third with green stripes, the next with green fringe..." Yada, Yada. By the time I run through the color palette, stripes, solids, fringes, plaids if needed, different hair colors, individual shield patterns, shading, different weapons, backing up to correct the mistakes (yes, I confess) and so on, I'm not sure that I am actually saving any time.
And yes, acrylics - excelsior!
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Post by haywire on Aug 31, 2019 10:48:46 GMT
Concerning the choice of colours. This works for me: If possible find out the colours of the regions or cities of the army and use them as the basis of the figure colours. For example, for my Venice army I chose Verona, Dolo, Treviso, and Trieste for the Sp and 4Pk and used their colours for the figures (with a few other accents, such as a bit of green). www.iandrea.co.uk/wargames/DBA/venice/index.html. This is easier for the later book armies, as there is more relevant information. Otherwise you can find some paintings of that era/region and choose colours from them (the painter will have used colours that work well together). If in doubt, use lighter colours and dustier/earthier ones.
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Post by wyvern on Aug 31, 2019 13:18:02 GMT
Am using a wet palette so it keeps the paint fresh, this helps if you are painting figures individually 😀
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Post by phippsy on Nov 11, 2019 11:15:51 GMT
I was wondering what the concern is was to painting a row of figures mounted on balda or other sticks, say 8-16 per stick, depending if infantry or cavalry etc.
I tried this stick approach the other day, primed with black and then set of for Catalan Company Almughavars. 16 on each stick. Essex figures. I found the start quick when I was then building the colours, but then the detail seemed to take more time than if individual figures being done in a batch. I was forever twisting and turning the stick, was frustrated that I could not easily access all areas, and got repetitive strain in my fingers.
Historically I have always primed a batch of individual figures, and then painted them in a batch, but on separate card bases.
I think I may now spray prime on the sticks, take the figures off and then paint as themed batches on separate bases of 16 to 24 Per batch.
Any thoughts?
Thanks Peter
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Post by snowcat on Nov 11, 2019 11:18:35 GMT
Corks. 1 figure per cork.
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Post by j on Nov 11, 2019 18:54:29 GMT
I use 1 lollipop stick with 4-6 figures on each (usually 1 or 2 elements worth) but usually have several sticks on the go at once & tend to do one colour at a time to get the basics done. Once a stick is nearing completion I concentrate on that one for detail (not so much twisting & turning involved) so I can get the element based asap - although I frequently wait for several sticks to be finished before black washing then varnishing.
Regards,
j
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Post by gregorius on Nov 11, 2019 20:48:45 GMT
I glue individual figures to 10-12 nails, spray back undercoat and then batch paint the figures.
Cheers
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Post by vtsaogames on Nov 12, 2019 0:18:47 GMT
I cut the boxes they are shipped in into strips, then tack figures onto the strips with a little Elmer's glue, spray prime and batch paint. When they are done, an eye dropper with water on each base lets me pry them up with a tiny screw driver about 10 minutes later.
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Post by jdesmond on Nov 12, 2019 3:57:07 GMT
When I'm with my boardgaming friends, and they break out new games, I ask 'Do you want the 'counter trees' (colloquial term for 'what is left of the cardboard sheets after the die-cut playing pieces are punched out') ?' And if they don't, I take the counter trees home, whack them up, stick a bit of double-sided 'poster tape' to each end, and stick figures to that for painting. (Occasionally I get counter trees with rows of circular counters, onovdesedaze am going to use them to make some Roman arch bridges...)
I also collect the flip-tops from squeeze bottles of _Dawn_ dish detergent, poster-tape-stick figures to them for finish painting. Note that the tops of _Dawn_ bottlecaps are flat, most other brands are 'dimpled'. Sometime I hope to run across customer surveytaker from Proctor & Gamble, tell them why I'm steady customer ;-)
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Post by felixs on Nov 12, 2019 9:43:42 GMT
I do batch painting exclusively. Much quicker. And I do not believe that the difference shows at normal tabletop view distances. Of course, if people pick up my minis to look at them closely, that is different. But that is not what I paint for.
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Post by Spitzicles on Nov 12, 2019 23:06:28 GMT
I was wondering what the concern is was to painting a row of figures mounted on balda or other sticks, say 8-16 per stick, depending if infantry or cavalry etc. I tried this stick approach the other day, primed with black and then set of for Catalan Company Almughavars. 16 on each stick. Essex figures. I found the start quick when I was then building the colours, but then the detail seemed to take more time than if individual figures being done in a batch. I was forever twisting and turning the stick, was frustrated that I could not easily access all areas, and got repetitive strain in my fingers. Historically I have always primed a batch of individual figures, and then painted them in a batch, but on separate card bases. I think I may now spray prime on the sticks, take the figures off and then paint as themed batches on separate bases of 16 to 24 Per batch. Any thoughts? Thanks Peter Peter,
I would suggest fewer figures on the stick, as J does in his comment. I also glue a smaller cross piece on the stick so handling is easier and its more stable on a flat surface. I put no more than 1 element per stick, so you can see how the element as a group is developing and looking.
I paint in batches, so all the Cavalry, all the Light Horse, etc. Elements with 2 or 3 foot figures per base I paint on their actual base, its magnet keeping it on a larger piece of sheet metal so its easier to hold. Figures for larger foot elements and all mounted elements are painted on sticks, with the riders glued to the horses. After the first coat of spray varnish I soak the sticks in water for about an hour to get the figures off for proper basing.
A batch should be finished before the next batch is begun.
Moving figures from sticks (priming base) to individual painting bases would seem to add unnecessary steps to the painting process. But if it works for you, why not?
Cheers.
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Post by Baldie on Nov 12, 2019 23:14:44 GMT
I cant say it makes it any easier but I also do some armies whilst already based up. It means I get a few games in with em to help motivate me to get some paint slapped on.
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