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Post by diades on Jan 1, 2019 12:21:05 GMT
Black-lining: the making of a clear black line between each distinct shape or colour on a miniature.
Opinions sought...
The smaller the scale the more necessary to achieve a good effect?
How "thick"?
Applied at the end of the painting process or at the start (either by outlining in black over a white undercoat, or using a black undercoat and not painting right up to the edges)?
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Post by Baldie on Jan 1, 2019 12:40:32 GMT
I use a black undercoat to give an effect like black lining.
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Jan 1, 2019 12:54:31 GMT
Personal views: - Thickness depends on the artist's style. Some people get away with thick, bold lines whilst with others it looks crude.
- Personally I use a black undercoat and don't paint to the edge.
- Another option is to "simulate" black lining using layers.
If you're interested in the latter approach: - If I were to paint two adjacent areas, one white and one green, I would first paint blocks in grey & dark green respectively.
- Then I'd paint the final colours but not quite to the edge where the colours meet.
- The intention is to leave a transition like this - white/grey/dark green/green.
- This gives definition without the use of a stark black.
- It doesn't make that much difference if you miss the lighter base colour out giving white/dark green/green.
- This produces different types of lining which adds subtlety to any figure.
- Plus the extra layer adds depth and brightness to any model.
For those of you thinking this hard work I'd just like to point out that I find adding the second layer very relaxing as there's no need to be worried about making a mistake: all the accurate work has already been done.
Hope this helps?
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Post by paddy649 on Jan 1, 2019 20:18:16 GMT
I combine the black undercoat with black lining using a 10/0 brush and lots of patience.
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Post by paulisper on Jan 1, 2019 20:21:33 GMT
Black-lining: the making of a clear black line between each distinct shape or colour on a miniature. Opinions sought...The smaller the scale the more necessary to achieve a good effect? How "thick"? Applied at the end of the painting process or at the start (either by outlining in black over a white undercoat, or using a black undercoat and not painting right up to the edges)? For all figures, whether 6 or 15mm, I undercoat black and dry brush white. Then: 6mm - Paint in blocks of bright, strong colour, leaving a black line effect on the borders, and then touching up the borders at the end. Quick and effective. 15mm - Paint base colours, then use shade (strong, soft, blue, red or green, whatever is the appropriate colour - used to just do strong shade on everything, but found this too dulling on anything but 'brown' based colours) on the figure to create a layering effect. Then go over parts of the model with original colours and finally go over with the original colour again to a lesser extent, but with white added in to make a lighter final top layer. This is a technique that's taking me about 8 years of experimenting to arrive at and I'm now really happy with the results. The Northern Cup will showcase a full spectrum of armies that have gone through this range of processes and you'll see how the effect has improved down the years  Cheers P. |
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Post by bob on Jan 2, 2019 3:01:16 GMT
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Post by goragrad on Jan 2, 2019 5:06:02 GMT
Prime white, block paint, Minwax Polyshades Walnut (or Ace equivalent). Of course the last 1000 or so figs are awaiting the varnish.
Too many figures and too little time to go for the showcase. I would like to get most of the armies I have figures for on the table while I can still see well enough to paint them. I spend a fair bit of time on research and color combination decisions rather than enhanced techniques.
It is still good to get that occasional 'Nice job' comment.
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Post by timurilank on Jan 2, 2019 8:03:05 GMT
Black-lining: the making of a clear black line between each distinct shape or colour on a miniature. Opinions sought... The smaller the scale the more necessary to achieve a good effect? How "thick"? Applied at the end of the painting process or at the start (either by outlining in black over a white undercoat, or using a black undercoat and not painting right up to the edges)? Diades,
Of late, I have been using Games Workshop’s Nuln Oil over clothing, equipment and belting.
This flows well and when dry and does not appear harsh looking as black paint or ink. I would not use it to cover flesh tones as there are much better options from Games Workshop.
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Post by nangwaya on Jan 2, 2019 12:10:56 GMT
Thanks for posting links on the dip method, Bob.
Your figures look awesome to me!
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Post by nangwaya on Jan 2, 2019 13:01:18 GMT
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Post by bob on Jan 3, 2019 4:12:30 GMT
nangwaya, thanks for the fix and comments.
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Post by wyvern on Jan 4, 2019 7:47:25 GMT
For me some delineation is necessary particularly with the smaller scales. I have experimented with the black undercoat method and quite like it but some figures scream "use a wash on me" particularly if there is lots of detail such as folds in clothing or chainmail etc. So the white undercoat, blocking in, wash, and use of highlights is my current preferred method.I think this produces a quick but effective looking paint job.
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Post by johnw on Jan 4, 2019 22:21:09 GMT
Another approach is to use colours other than black. So brown could be used for reds and dark blue for blues and greens for example.
One trick in "black" lining is to use paints that don't dry quickly so that it is easy to fix mistakes. I mix up a bottle with paint and retarder, some people use watercolours
I don't outline everything on the figure, just major transitions in colour.
Lining does improve contrast, even at the magic 3' distance. This distance is very relevant to me because I can't see any detail without glasses at less than that.
Good luck, try it out and see what you like
John
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Post by jim1973 on Jan 5, 2019 1:11:21 GMT
I'm a big fan of the Games Workshop washes. They work well and add depth to colours (think dark green in the folds of a green cloak). The sepia wash works well for blonde hair. Nuln Oil takes the shine off metal to gives them that real world look. Fleshshade brings out the facial detail and can be alternated with the dark brown Earthshade for darker skin tones. Actually, I use buckets of the Earthshade on most wood, leather, stone, etc details for effect. But I think some restraint is also necessary, particularly on flat surfaces, as well as using some drybrush/touch up for lighter colours that lose their lustre. Finally, a little patience to let the paint fully dry seems to decrease absorption of the shade on the higher points, helping to create a highlight.
Having said all that, at gaming distance, it's still the mass effect and the basing detail that seems to catch my eye!
Cheers
Jim
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Post by diades on Jan 5, 2019 18:04:49 GMT
Thank you all for sharing. I started with 28mm fantasy back in the day, so I tend toward black undercoat and leaving lines at the edges. I find pride makes me go too close to the edges and hence I lose the effect I was first going for, hence I found myself recently using a thick ink to reestablish the black lines, thus the question...
Much good advice provided. I think I have tried all at one point or another. I guess keep learning by practicing. In the meantime, perhaps it is my basing that needs work....
Thanks again.
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