|
Post by Cromwell on Aug 8, 2016 7:08:52 GMT
Having seen Vodnik's discussions on ACW, coupled with the fact I am reading Bernard Cornwell's "Starbuck Chronicles" I have decided to give it ago.
However I was daunted by the thought of purchasing and painting up another large quantity of figures. Especially as I am not sure if I will stick with the era. I thought of Irregular Miniatures 2mm range but then came across Billy Bones Workshop. Available through Wargames Vault he does a superb range of ACW figures, including scenary produced in PDF form for download and printing. I have in the past used his English Civil War range and they are excellent. All available for about £6. So that's the way I will go to start out.
What rules do people advise for ACW?
|
|
|
Post by braisdefer on Aug 8, 2016 7:40:05 GMT
Before choosing a set of rules I would suggest reading Paddy Griffiths 'Battle Tactics of the Civil War' and Brent Nosworthy. The main lesson is "cut down the combat ranges!" As to rules, I have succesfully used Bob Cordery's Portable Wargame and One Hour Wargame for ACW plus of course the DB clones.
|
|
|
Post by vodnik on Aug 8, 2016 8:01:48 GMT
|
|
|
Post by timurilank on Aug 8, 2016 14:08:50 GMT
Having seen Vodnik's discussions on ACW, coupled with the fact I am reading Bernard Cornwell's "Starbuck Chronicles" I have decided to give it ago. However I was daunted by the thought of purchasing and painting up another large quantity of figures. Especially as I am not sure if I will stick with the era. I thought of Irregular Miniatures 2mm range but then came across Billy Bones Workshop. Available through Wargames Vault he does a superb range of ACW figures, including scenary produced in PDF form for download and printing. I have in the past used his English Civil War range and they are excellent. All available for about £6. So that's the way I will go to start out. What rules do people advise for ACW? I too would recommend Paddy Griffith's book on "Tactics".
The DBA-HX would work well for the ACW.
I did experiment with the ranges, but found after reading the analyses in Griffith's book, I decided not to tinker there.
However, allowing the line units to detach skirmishers did work nicely. For the cost of one pip, a 4Sh could deploy as 3Sh + 2Sk. Like dismounting in DBA, you could not reform (or remount) back to the original element.
Attempting to fight large armies stretched over five or six miles of battlefield worked better with the use of a map, tracking all the divisions, allowing players to shift from one point of the battlefield to another by starting play on another board.
|
|
|
Post by Cromwell on Aug 9, 2016 9:03:41 GMT
Well I have downloaded and printed out a paper Union and CSA army by Billy Bones from Wargames Vault. Includes scenery. Cost £5. I have cut out and made the Artillery, Limbers, Cavalry (Mounted) and a house. They have yet to be based. So far very pleased with the results. Attachment DeletedAttachment DeletedAttachment DeletedThe Pictures are of union troops. I still have Dismounted Cavalry, Horse Holders, Infantry, Infantry Command, Skirmishers and Generals to do. Other scenery items include fences, walls, variety of houses, trees and a church. Also the download includes two sets, one sized about 20/25mm as shown above and the other 10/15mm in size. It appears the depictions are based on old ACW sepia photographs. Not sure yet how I feel playing a wargame using photos of actual long dead soldiers! The effect is very good.
|
|
|
Post by crazycaptain560 on Aug 10, 2016 22:43:31 GMT
It is a very fun period indeed. The best sets are those that handle morale and C&C in my opinion. The range issue is also common (although rifles had a much larger range than muskets, they typically did not waste ammo until the enemy was around 200 yards away.) The most common basing type (if there really is one) is typically 25mm square bases or 1"x3/4" for the infantry. With the artillery and cavalry adjusted slightly depending upon size. Really, as long as both sides have the same frontage most rules will work fine. The most popular in the period are "Fire and Fury", "Regimental Fire and Fury", The Johnny Reb series (III in particular), and "On to Richmond". There are others, and I think with work a DBA-x version would do just fine. For that I am experimenting with using D8s for combat. Providing a little more chaos. Playing ACW is a bit like playing the 7YW so you have to find some of the interest parts and make them "come to life" .
|
|
|
Post by jdesmond on Aug 24, 2016 5:59:53 GMT
Salutations, gentlefolk ! Was in a group of enthusiastic ACW gamers a few years back - we did the 'Round Tops' scenario in _Fire and Fury_ at the Civil War Museum in Philadelphia for four years running, Fourth of July weekend. Wrote up a quick ref sheet, available at: boardgamegeek.com/filepage/61005/fire-fury-quick-referenceF&F is brigade-level, designed for 'Gettysburg in "real time" (ie, 1 hour of the battle takes 1 hour at the game table), with a reasonably sized space and about 1 player per Union corps or Confederate division'. Problem is, there weren't that many ACW battles - Shiloh, Antietam, Chicamauga, for example - that are both big enough for the scope of the ruleset - smaller actions may come down to a lucky die roll, balanced, and not 'charging fortifications' Johnny Reb III is regimental level, about 1 player per brigade, covers a lot of the 'minutiae' - F&F has 'artillery', with the Feds getting a +1 DRM for better ammo supply, JRIII has gun types for each battery If you're painting up a late-war Union army (everybody wants to paint up early-war units in fancy militia units or Rebels in all shades of gray and butternut), note that: every dye house and woolen mill from Milwaukee to Milan was making cloth for the Union (most re-enactors clothes are from the same 'dye lot' (there not being much demand these days for heavyweight wool cloth in dull light blue)), so the colors won't be strictly uniform. Indigo is an organic dye, and if you try to overboil the vat to get more color out of the dyestuffs, the resulting cloth will have a greenish hue. After a month or two of campaigning and 'field maintainance', the uniforms will be even less uniform. In other words, pick up every variety of blue / dull blue / greenish blue / bluish gray in the store, and have an army of veteran Yanks. Yours, John (don't make me dig up all the stuf I posted on rec.games.miniatures.historical :-( )
|
|
doug
Munifex
Posts: 12
|
Post by doug on Aug 24, 2016 20:18:17 GMT
I am currently using Horse Foot & Guns, (The DBA analog from WRG) for War of the Spanish Succession (in 6mm on 60mm x 30mm bases), and it works very well. It extends to cover ACW as well, and the 'feel' for large scale games is excellent. If you haven't tried it, I believe they are available as a free download, and as a lulu printed copy..
|
|
|
Post by txwargamer on Aug 27, 2016 23:35:01 GMT
I am currently using Horse Foot & Guns, (The DBA analog from WRG) for War of the Spanish Succession (in 6mm on 60mm x 30mm bases), and it works very well. It extends to cover ACW as well, and the 'feel' for large scale games is excellent. If you haven't tried it, I believe they are available as a free download, and as a lulu printed copy.. In HFG, about how many bases make up an army? I'm debating HX, DBACW, or HFG for my ACW games. Heck perhaps using the HX 3.0 might work well. It only goes to 1850 but should be easily extended.
|
|
|
Post by lkmjbc on Aug 28, 2016 18:44:18 GMT
HFG uses approximately 2000-2500 men per element... thus an element in the ACW is about a standard brigade. Your army size will of course reflect the battle you are fighting.
I quite like HFGs for SYW and ACW. The ACW period works especially well. Napoleonic and post ACW... not so well.
I just don't like the lack of flavor for the Napoleonic period. Post ACW runs into some problems with the math of the combat routines.
Phil needs to work that out.
Joe Collins
|
|
|
Post by txwargamer on Aug 28, 2016 21:40:28 GMT
Thanks Joe
|
|
doug
Munifex
Posts: 12
|
Post by doug on Sept 1, 2016 14:00:41 GMT
HFG uses approximately 2000-2500 men per element... thus an element in the ACW is about a standard brigade. Your army size will of course reflect the battle you are fighting. I quite like HFGs for SYW and ACW. The ACW period works especially well. Napoleonic and post ACW... not so well. I just don't like the lack of flavor for the Napoleonic period. Post ACW runs into some problems with the math of the combat routines. Phil needs to work that out. Joe Collins I have also successfully reduced the scale to one base per regiment without doing damage to the integrity of the game.... the report and pics are here: aleadodyssey.blogspot.co.uk/2016/03/wss-game-2.htmlI understand that Phil was also looking at doing specific HFG sub-sets to cover Napoleonics, ACW and so on...
|
|